WINTERY LEEKS

Leeks, like onions and scallions, are part of the allium family and are considered root vegetables. Compared with onions and garlic they are expensive and less popular.  It seems many people don’t know exactly what to do with them.  One simple rule is to replace them with onions if you prefer a milder flavored onion, similar to shallots.  The gentle leek becomes even sweeter when cooked and its oniony-ness becomes subtler when cooked on a low heat setting.

(gorgeous long stemmed leeks) 

In early spring I can’t wait to have the garlicky-sweet smell of wild leeks (also known as ramps) tickling my nostrils – one of the sure signs that Spring is coming.  But let’s not get ahead of ourselves …  winter is here for a while!

Snowy Preservation
Leeks can be found all year round but they’re best from fall to early spring.  My onion farmer Alex told me that during winter, when it snows, they dig out long stemmed leeks from under the snow layer to preserve them nicely so that the low temperatures do not overly expose these pretty sturdy vegetables.  (I always get the image of the wild bison in Yellowstone rooting through 8 feet of snow with their powerful necks for tiny grass shoots, but Alex might not like that comparison!)

(beautiful leek slices, the next step is to cook them slowly) 

Classic Leek Cooking
Many leek recipes can be found in old cookbooks.  When I trained as a young cook in Austria creating that famous soup “vichyssoise” was a big deal.  With a thick and rich consistency, this delicious soup is made with leeks, onions, potatoes and a touch of cream and is served cold or hot depending on the season. And certainly everyone has heard of Quiche Lorraine.  This dish was among the items on one of my first menus I designed for a restaurant.  The traditional quiche Lorraine is a savory piecrust filled with bacon bits, melted leeks set in an egg custard.  Still sounds pretty mouth-watering even if not so novel anymore.

Last But Not Least, Leeks Are Healthy …
Often overlooked in leeks is their important concentration of folate, a significant B vitamin that supports the cardiovascular system. Leeks also have a great deal of potassium important for maintaining the body’s fluid balance, nerve transmission and muscle contraction and for overall proper functioning of cells throughout the body.  Maybe consider a leek instead of a banana for your next workout?!

Not So Classic Potato-Leek Tart

Pie Crust
(makes one 9-inch pie dish)

1 stick butter (8 ounces)
1 ¼ cups whole-wheat flour
½ teaspoon sea salt
¼ teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons cold water

1.     Cut butter into ½-inch cubes and put into the freezer for 10 minutes – ice cold butter will make a flaky crust.
2.     Combine flour, salt and sugar in a food processor and pulse until combined. Add butter and pulse for 30 seconds – it should have a coarse texture at this point if not pulse for another 30 seconds. Add cold water and pulse for 30 seconds or until the mixture clumps up. If you don’t have a food processor you can incorporate the ingredients in a bowl with a fork or hands.
3.     Put the crumbly mixture into a bowl and knead with bare hands into dough working quickly. Don’t over-knead the dough it’s OK to still see small butter pieces in the dough. Cover dough with plastic wrap and put into the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
4.     Dust a flat surface with flour, press dough to a flat disk and rollout to 1/8-inch thickness. Dust flour over the dough to prevent sticking.
5.     Line pie dish with rolled-out dough. Press pie dough with fingers into the pie dish. Freeze pie mold for 15 minutes.
6.     Line piecrust with aluminum foil and weight-down with pie weights or hold-down pie with a heavy object such as a pot.
7.     Bake pie for 20 minutes at 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove aluminum foil and bake 10 minutes longer.  

(golden prettiness)

Pie Filling
(filling for one 9-inch pie dish)

1 pound leeks, green tops cut-off
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 teaspoon sea salt
10 grindings black pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 cup milk
3 eggs
½ cup grated cheese such as Gruyere
1 teaspoon oregano leaves

1.     Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
2.     Cut leeks into ¼-inch thick slices then put into a bowl filled with water. Swish leeks with hands in water – this will release gritty soil particles.
3.     In a 1-gallon sized pot heat vegetable oil and add leeks. Season leek with ½-teaspoon salt pepper and nutmeg then cook for 30 minutes.
4.     Fill cooked leeks into the pre-cooked piecrust.
5.     In a bowl combine milk, eggs and ½-teaspoon salt with a wire whisk and pour over the leeks.
6.     Put pie into the hot oven and bake for 30 minutes. Sprinkle grated cheese evenly over the pie top and continue to bake for five minutes longer.
7.     Check doneness by gently jiggling the pie, it should wiggle a bit in the middle.
8.     Cool for 30 minutes then cut into wedges. Sprinkle pie with oregano before serving.

(the tart yielded +-12 portions my spouse and I managed to have four portions for the next day left over! Needless to say it tasted awesome)

Chef’s Tip: Serve tender baby greens such as baby spinach and/or arugula with the pie.

 

 

DAILY BREAD “FANCIFICATION”

Many everyday foods such as cereals, milk products, oils/fats, baby food and beverages are fortified with vitamins. What’s up with that – is it good or just a marketing plot? Let’s see…
A one-sided diet of too much corn, sugar and refined starches like white flour caused a spike in neural-tube birth defects already in the early 19 hundreds. In 1998 the government made it mandatory to add folic acid to bread. A study sponsored by the Center for Disease Control and Prevention indicated that the addition of folic acid was at least partially responsible for a 25% drop in neural tube defect. That’s why many mommies-to-be consume rather high doses of folic acid during pregnancy nowadays or you can get your daily dose on lentils, broccoli or leafy greens such as kale.

(not re-fined Swiss chard bunches from a farmer's market) 


Vitamin D, a fat-soluble vitamin, is often added to vegetable oils, cereals and dairy products. It is developed in our bodies by sun exposure and is often hard to come by – think of winter or someone who doesn’t do much outdoor activity! Luckily these days bone deformations due to vitamin D deficiency are a rather rare occurrence due to fortification.

(vitamins added A,D,B12 & calcium) 

(iodine in common sea salt) 

Iodine is a salt enrichment and is the most effective way of preventing mental deficiencies and aids in learning abilities. Find a better way to say learning abilities” it sounds awkward. A huge number of people worldwide still suffer from iodine deficiency and a tragically high number of babies are born with brain damage because of that. Deficiencies are clearly not the only reason why all those vitamin buzz words are highlighted on every foods - lots of sales language is involved here. All that enhanced food is not as impressive as the label might suggest and little research supports the health claims particularly when compared to wholesome, fresh cooked foods consumed in a balanced way.

Pick from the fortified menu…
Below find a few examples of how to build your daily menu fortified or natural.

A 2-tablespoon portion of peanut butter fortified with 100 mg of omega-3 fatty acids. Or what’s the point if you can get your dose by eating a 6-ounce portion of fresh salmon for dinner (~ 3000 mg omega-3 fatty acid) unless of course you are a vegetarian then you can eat vegetables such as cauliflower with mustard seeds and/or cabbage with a touch of cloves prepared with canola oil, sprinkle some oregano and pecans over that then you are in omega-3 heaven (all these veggies, spices, nuts and oils are particularly high in omega-3).




Kids are clearly happy with their ultra-pasteurized chocolate milk which is often vitamin D fortified and thickened with a touch of refined starch to make the texture more velvety. But don't overlook the sugar content, which is much higher than the vitamin content and hence not great for health. Instead consider organic milk thickened with carrageenan (a seaweed which thickens liquids/foods) and find your vitamin D from the sun or a natural product that is fortified like Rice or Soy Milk, with far less sugar.

We’ve all been there after a tough workout….you can chug a well known orange colored energy drink with the daily suggested dose of vitamin C (citrus flavor) and a long list of minerals added, sweetened with sugar (3-5 grams/fluid ounce) or saccharine. Or you can have orange juice, freshly pressed ideally or even a banana, which is loaded with potassium, so essential after or before exercise.

Ain’t nothing like the real thing
The refining and processing steps in food production destroys valuable vitamins and nutrients. Fortifying foods in some synthesized form is mostly a marketing tool and a quick fix to get your nutrients when you don’t have a choice, you’re in a rush or you’re in the middle of a marathon and they are offering that orange laboratory juice on the spot. It is not a way to build a healthy, sustainable diet and as the song goes “Ain’t nothing like the real thing.” Marvin Gaye said it before the soda company fortified the slogan.

...EATING WHEN IT'S THAT COLD - the blog

We have had some biting cold days in January so far here in the northeast. Most people I know tend to eat differently at these frigid temperatures compared to when the thermometer is in the warm zone. Stews or braised dishes are definitely popular in cold weather because it’s simply more warming and at the same time it’s heartier.

(cranberry bean salad with cilantro, sweet peppers with citrus vinaigrette)

Salads become more robust too since that tender petaled lettuce is nowhere to be found until sun rays give us the pleasure again when spring cracks open.
 
(wheat berries and mint and sun-dried tomatoes)

It doesn't always have to be lettuce
I like to incorporate grains and beans into salads which give your salads that stew-like satisfaction.  Millet, cranberry beans, wheat berries, buckwheat are some great grains and can even server a main course if necessary. Variations are endless when you take advantage of the winter pantry - think of adding spices such as black sesame, Hungarian paprika or spicy chili peppers. Nuts are a great addition in grain salads as they add texture and richness so the oil content in the dressing can be minimal.  And speaking of dressing citrus fruits such as Meyer lemons or Cara Cara oranges give a bright note to your mixtures. If the salad seems a little too robust add chopped mustard greens, winter salad to it or even your orange slices to it. I love adding plenty of herbs – your taste buds will appreciate it and they are visually satisfying too. 

The following is my basic grain salad recip.  I switch out grains depending upon what’s available at my local market.

(borlotti beans chilling for the salad)

Grain Salad

(recipe yields four servings)

3 cups water
1 teaspoon sea salt
black pepper, to taste
1 cup millet
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
1 green apple such as Granny Smith, cored and diced into 1/8-inch cubes (skin-on)
1 bunch or two cups chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 cup hazelnuts (with skin), toasted then crushe
2 lemons such as Meyer lemon, juiced
1 tablespoon extra virgin coconut oil (melted) or extra virgin olive oil may be substituted 

1.     In a 1-gallon sized pot combine water, ½-teaspoon salt, 5 grindings pepper then bring to boil on high heat setting.
2.     Add millet and thyme and switch heat setting to low. Cook millet covered with a tight fitting lid for 25 minutes. Try millet for doneness -- it should be soft, if it’s not continue to cook for 10 more minutes.
3.     Spread millet onto a cookie-like sheet pan and leave on the kitchen counter for 10 minutes then transfer into the refrigerator to cool completely.
4.     In a bowl combine apple cubes, chopped parsley, crushed hazelnuts, lemon juice and oil. Incorporate all ingredients with a table fork and season with black pepper to taste.

 

OATMEAL FOR BREAKFAST, DESSERT & STAYING POWDER - the blog

When it comes to oatmeal people have their preferences and there are certainly differences between steel-cut, rolled, instant and quick cooking oats.

(steel-cut oatmeal) 

(choose organic for an unadultered taste) 

Steel-cut oats are whole grains; they are the inner portions of the oat kernel. These kernels look similar to long corn rice and are processed into two or three pieces. Rolled oats start with the same kernel then get rolled and steamed between heavy wheels and this flattening and steaming makes it quick cooking. Steel-cut oats take about 30 minutes of cooking time versus 5 minutes with rolled oats. There is an even quicker oat-cooking product known as oat flakes and here all you need to do is bring water to boil and pour in the oat flakes and the meal is done.

Compared with other hearty breakfast options like bacon & eggs, ham, pancakes, French toast etc., oatmeal is the best  go-to option since it stuffs the belly and has a lasting effect until lunch hours and the best part is it keeps you slender and guilt free.

Usually I’m in the camp of give me what I want as quickly as possible - but in the case of oatmeal patience actually pays of totally. I recommend cooking the steel-cut version. Steel cut oats take longer to cook than the other more broken down kind. In my opinion steel-cut oats score better on many levels because they’re wholesome, rich and nutty with a slight chewy texture.  The only down side is the longer cooking time but there are ways to get around it.  Let’s face it not too many of us want to get up half an hour earlier to cook oatmeal.  So I suggest cooking oatmeal sometime during the day, whenever it suits your schedule in larger quantities and you can portion it into smaller containers for the next days to come. It can be re-heated simply with a few tablespoons of liquid of choice such as milk, nut milk, soymilk etc. The re-heating can be done either in a pot or in the microwave.

(plenty of stee-cut oatmeal for the next couple of days) 

Oatmeal Variations
I have become bored with diner style oatmeal because usually it’s tasteless and seems like grown up baby food.  I have been testing many oatmeal recipes for restaurant breakfast menus and want to share a few favorites:

(certainley not dull...oatmeal cookie ice cream sandwiches with hot chocolate) 

Basic Oatmeal
(recipe serves four)

5 cups water
1 cup steel cut oats
2 pinches of salt
1 pinch cinnamon powder

1. In a 2-quart sized pot bring water to boil and add the oats, salt and cinnamon.
2. Cook mixture on low heat setting for 30 minutes.

I actually love oatmeal for a dessert course, it reminds me of rice pudding and I give it a similar treatment. Warm oatmeal with cocoa powder and a dash of heavy cream, garnished with ice-cold butter flakes. If you have leftovers pop them into the refrigerator and eat it cold the next day which catapults the dish to a pudding like experience.

An unusual version creating different layers of temperature won many fans in my past.  Sweeten basic oatmeal with honey and add one tablespoon of milk per person and fresh plump blueberries just before serving. I recommend ladling this oatmeal mixture over a spoonful of rich Greek-style yogurt in a bowl. The eating experience of scalding hot blueberry flecked oatmeal with chilled yogurt beneath is interesting and refreshingly good.

Soak nuts like pistachios, cashews or almonds in water for two hours and add this with a heaping tablespoon of raisins to the basic oatmeal recipe.

(power breakfast; oatmeal with wheat grass, sprouted cashews and rich Greek yoghurt) 

For the health nut in you I have some special tricks for you to experiment with -- add dehydrated wheat grass, sprouted chia seeds or powder, and extra virgin coconut oil for an all day boost. These ingredients are interchangeable and the amounts can vary but add it at the end to the basic recipe so the nutritious value can shine.

 
(...and for the New Years Eve menu; oatmeal broth with chantarelle mushrooms and black truffles)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DOING IT LIKE THE FRENCH - the blog

Pearl onions are not particularly in season right now put it’s on the top of my list for winter vegetables.  This time of the year is not much else going on since the soil on local fields is starting to freeze. You might know them pickled resurfacing in your dirty martini. I remember them from younger years as a young cook in France you could encounter them just about on every menu seeming like a default vegetable a few ones in a classic beef bourgiginone dish, stacked up artfully next to a roasted loup de mer fish dish , nestled into a vegetable casserole and so forth.   

How to gratin
Since I have been in the Francophile mood for the last few days I created an onion gratin dish. Tiny pearl shaped onions which were naturally sweet like candy were the right fit. Well, the peeling step was painstakingly longwinded and defiantly needed patience but was balanced with a few simple recipe steps afterwards. * For starters a few pinches of cayenne and grape-seed oil with fresh bay leaf was all what was needed. I browned the onions on the stove top on low heat setting in a heavy skillet and shook it once every five minutes in this way the pearl onions did not burn and caramelized evenly - the natural sweetness of the onion was enhanced by doing so. A few dashes of aggressively acidic Champagne vinegar balanced that sweetness and gave the little balls a shiny glaze. I transferred the onions into an ovenproof dish and sprinkled with a special reserve Comte cheese over it. I had pre-heated my oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit were I melted the cheese over the onions – voila

(pearl onions from raw to done)

Chef’s note:
Comte cheese is made from unpasteurized cow’s milk. It is produced in the Franche-Comte region in France.  I love the velvety nature of the cheese when melted and the sharp, nutty scent. 

(pearl onions with cheese just before they're put in the oven) 

Gratin & Co
I served the pearl onion gratin next to tender leafed, buttery, pale-green bibb lettuce dressed with a classic vinaigrette and croutons – doesn’t sound much of a meal but was a perfect fit for a light Sunday evening dinner with a lovely glass of red Bordeaux.

 *There is a quick no-pain way of peeling the little suckers; bring water to boil and drop the unpeeled onions into it. Transfer the onions after 30 seconds with a slotted spoon to an ice water bath. Cut root-top from onions and squeeze on other end – this will pop the onion right out.

 

 

 

 

 

HOLIDAY AMUSES - the blog

The fancy term is “hors d’oeuvres” and holiday parties are all about snacking on little bites of this and that. Don’t you love when the trays of food arrive butler-style in front of you, you feel a little like a kid in a toy store and you always find your favorite one or two hoping that server will make his way back to you with a tray freshly refilled.

(delicat smoked salmon makes a fine horse d'oeuvres)

I think the quality of a caterer or chef really shines when it comes to these little amuse gueueles or amuses bouche (“little mouthfuls” translated from French). Amuses are traditionally served as a welcome from the chef before dinner is served and they’re perfect for the cocktail hour. These little foods don’t differ much from appetizers as long as they’re treated with the same care in preparation. The  preparation tools might change a bit like small cutters for little toasts points and tweezers come-in handy to garnish tiny-bite sized pieces with herbs, pickles and such. Platters or trays are the preferred moving palettes to transport the tiny works of art from guest to guest.
Some of my simple favorites are cubed smoked salmon on crusty baguette rounds, beef tartar with capers perhaps with a dab of Tabasco with a pungent herb like cilantro. Jumbo sized shrimp “cocktail” are a certain favorite (the sauce consists of mayonnaise, ketchup, cognac and get a little heat with horseradish).

(a tab of caviar can make a bite-sized taste shine) 

Tricks to make some fans 
These one-bite wonders should be seasoned a bit more compared with an appetizer so remember a sprinkle of sea salt, a dab of cayenne, that extra spritz of lemon juice is needed to make that memorable first impression. I’m a big believer that the first impression must be ideal. Caviar, paper thin truffle slices, pungent herbs rich pâtés can be a good way to impress your in-laws and get that wow effect. Another French invention for holiday amuses are vol-au-vents literally meaning “blown by the wind”, these provide a delicious serving vessel. made with buttery puffed pastry and beg to be stuffed with an array of heavenly creamy mousses or crumbly,  loose natured food.
Finger foods are the best case scenario for the host as clean-up is minimal but if you have plenty of helpers on your hand you have more options for fun serving utensils.

(proschuitto di parma, selected sausages for canapes - awesome) 

Fun with Utensils
I love to use small Chinese soup spoons, shot glasses in which soup can be served, elaborately twisted bent spoons, pipettes where a shoot of some concentrated velvety creation can be served, pipettes which can serve as a skewer and contains some flavor explosive elixir at the same time. Old fashioned wooden skewers are perfectly fine to serve skewered flash seared filet mignon cubes, tuna belly dominos or savory lollipops. 

Rummage through your cabinets and you may find under utilized egg holders or rustic looking earth wear sake cups, these make nice liquid holders for fragrant teas, soups or purees.
From my experience as a guest or participant at events or cocktail receptions a large amount of passed foods come out of a “fryalator.” In my opinion a lot of flavor identity of little food morsels get lost and it makes food taste very similar to each other and sits rather heavy in the belly.
Then again it’s not a bad idea if there is a lot of heavy drinking going on at the party - it makes a great sponge for those strong holiday cocktails!

Cheers, Prost and Happy Holidays.

 

 

LITTLE JEWELS - the blog

Capers are little culinary jewels like tiny buds picked before they fully blossom into shrubby plants.  These bushes grow in the most difficult conditions surviving  inconsistent climate and rocky, gravely soil. They thrive in hot Mediterranean climates such as Cypress and Malta where they grow abundantly.

(brined capers) 

Capers are most commonly preserved in brine or simply doused in sea salt. In our circle (what circle do you mean?  NY or food world?  Need to clarify) the edible bud and fruit (caper berry) is available all year round on the supermarket shelves and offers a great way to add lots of that particular juicy, briny caper flavor which comes from natural mustard oil released by the little buds.

When local fresh herbs and vegetables become sparse or non-existent capers are especially handy. I love them in Italian  “evergreen” dishes such as  piccata, vitello tonnato and spaghetti putanesca. The French came up with their caper contributions with terrific sauce creations -- just think of the staple tartar sauce and remoulade. I remember working in France at Joel Robouchon’s restaurant where we deglazed a brown butter sauce  with ketchup in it – yes, the chef of the century cooks with ketchup - and then the sauce was deglazed with the brine liquid of capers – awesome. It was served with langoustines coated in spaghetti pasta.   The sauce tasted briny,  and salty at once and was the perfect compliment to the snow-white, orange hued, tender seafood.

I visited the Island of Rhodes in Greek after culinary school and the use of pickled caper leaves was abundant, which was positive since they make an excellent seasoning component in fish dishes. More everyday food such as lox , cream cheese with capers strewn over the whole spiel is definitely one of my brunch favorites. Interestingly, in cheese making I have come across different rennet substitutions even including caper leaves in high-end cheeses.

Snow white, caper dotted…..
Cauliflower was always too cabbagey for me and I didn’t like it very much until I came across a combination of cauliflower with capers.  Following here is a neat play on flavors which incorporates capers and raisins – a little sweet, a little sour…

(cauliflower on ice) 

Cauliflower with Capers and Raisins

(recipe yields four side-sized portions)

1 cauliflower (about 30 ounces)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil such as canola or grape-seed oil
¼ cup capers
¼ cup raisins
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
½ teaspoon sea salt
2 pinch cayenne1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1. Cut leaves of cauliflower. Cut 1-inch sized pieces (rosettes) of cauliflower head. Discard fibrous hard core stem.
2. In a 1-gallon sized pot heat oil on medium heat setting and cook/brown cauliflower pieces for 20 minutes stirring every five minutes.
3. Strain capers into a sieve, reserve the brine liquid.
4. Chop capers and raisins finely.
5. Combine capers, raisins, ground nutmeg, salt, cayenne with browned cauliflower.
6. Add the reserved caper brine liquid to the cauliflower/spice mixture and move the pot on the side of the stove.
7. Serve cauliflower in individual bowls or a large platter and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil.

(roasted cauliflower with capers and raisins) 

Chef’s Tip: Sprinkle the cooked, hot cauliflower with finely grated cheddar cheese from an artisanal maker.

 

 

MEATLOAF ISN'T ONLY AMERICAN - the blog

Certainly a staple in the American kitchen and on the most-wanted food list next to mac’n cheese, Hamburger, chili con carne and fried chicken  … good ole meatloaf is a cross cultural favorite.
Meatloaf seems to have German/Austrian roots which makes me secretly proud. In fact growing up in Austria meatloaf was one of my mother’s specialties that she called  “Hackbraten” which means “chopped roast.” That particular recipe calls for cooked, peeled eggs in the middle. I believe the name comes from the growth rings of tree stumps visible when chopped or hacked. In Italy I enjoyed polpettone, their version of meatloaf, with the addition of sliced ham and cheese incorporated into the meatloaf mixture garnished with tomato sauce instead of ketchup which is common here in the US.

A mover & shaker dish
Meatloaf is fairly simple to make since its ingredients are plenty available -- ground meat plus a few spices with some sort of a binder. Meatloaf is the cook’s blank canvas with limitless possibilities in terms of flavor combinations.
Next to traditional meatloaf I have created many culinary combinations such as rabbit meatloaf, duck meatloaf, and even fish “meatloaf” from a snow-white pike with pink lobster tails embedded in the center – certainly a gourmet treat and technically a little far from the traditional meatloaf.  Meatloaf conveys hominess and reminds us of sharing a meal with family.  The different renditions certainly were movers and shakers on my menus, especially the fish version.

(pretty in a baking pan) 

Constructing a Meatloaf
To me meatloaf resembles a sausage with a different texture. Whatever goes into a sausage could possibly be applied to a meatloaf recipe with the addition of some sort of binder such as bread crumbs, matzo, or wheat free options such as rolled oats, crushed rice crackers and so on.

(nicley holding up it's shape) 

Meatloaf Recipe
1.25 lb ground beef*
1.25 ground chicken
3 celery stalks
1 carrot, about 5-inch long
1 onion
4 cloves of garlic
1 tablespoon vegetable oil such as canola or grape-seed oil
2 teaspoons salt
10 black pepper grindings
2 tablespoon tomato paste
½ oz fresh oregano
½ cup rolled oats

(all meatloaf ingredients ready to be mixed)

1. Peel onions, carrot and garlic. Rinse celery with water. Chop all vegetables into 1/8-inch pieces or chop using the pulse button on a food processor.
2. In a 1-gallon sized pot heat vegetable oil on medium heat setting and cook the vegetables for 20 minutes stirring every once in a while.
3. Add salt, pepper and 1 tablespoon of the tomato paste to the cooked vegetables. Cook mixture five minutes longer. Spread the mixture onto a plate and let cool on the kitchen counter. Transfer vegetables into the refrigerator to chill.
4. Rinse oregano with water then chop finely.
5. Fill a large bowl with ice. Set a second bowl over the ice and combine ground beef, ground chicken, chilled vegetables, chopped oregano and oats. Mix ingredients together using a table fork. It is important not to over-mix the ingredients for a light meatloaf texture once baked.
   
   (close-up of my lighly mixed meatloaf)
6. Bake mixture in a cake loaf pan (approximately measuring 9x5x5-inch) at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 45 minutes or cook meatloaf until a kitchen thermometer reads 165 degrees Fahrenheit measured in the middle of the loaf.

*Chef’s Tip: When shopping for ground meats and poultry, select shoulder or shank animal parts if available, when pre-ground the expiration date should be not older than two days.

…and then there is – Bat out of Hell
I’m wondering whether a love of the dish was the inspiration for  the eponymous rock star Meat Loaf?  Both are quite popular. Still remembering the days of the Rocky Horror Picture Show…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SWEETIE, HONEY - the blog

We have strong emotional connections to sweets to the point where they are the most common pet names for our beloved. The fact is that we’re programmed from youth not only to use “sweet” language but also to consume a lot of it – on average 40 teaspoons daily, about 4x times more that the FDA’s recommends.  Refined or unrefined the intake is too much.  Thank you hidden sugars in soft drinks, candy, cereals, and baked goods with dressed up names for sugar like cane sugar, fruit sugar, fruit juice sweetened, fruit concentrate, caramel, carob syrup, glucose, maltose, maltodextrin, dextrose, sorbitol, natural cane sugar etc.  Indeed the FDA has no particular definition of “natural” which means anyone may add it before the word sugar in an attempt to make it sound healthier.  The problem is over time our body loses the ability to make enough sugar-digesting enzymes to meet the excess and sugar sensitivity develops which can result in daily headaches, aggression, insomnia, panic attacks, irritability, depression, mood swings, cardiovascular disease, tooth decay, obesity, diabetes and so on.

(Maurizio Cattalan's pieces of art in the Guggenheim museum expresses what the sugar industrie does with us pretty good - without using any words)

No Problem “suga”
Some people might say no problem let’s switch to a sugar substitute so we can have our sweets without the high caloric count. The following sugar substitutes are synthetic, which are “designed” in a laboratory:

(sugar always plentiful on the table)

• Aspartame (Equal in blue packets) which is about 180 times as sweet as sugar. It has a bitter aftertaste and loses is sweetness in cooked or baked goods.
• Neotame similar to apsartame, it’s “8000” times sweeter than sugar and only tiny amounts are needed for sweetening
• Sucralose (Splenda in yellow packets, SucraPlus) is about 600 times as sweet as sugar. It probably has the closest taste to conventional sugar and is heat stable. The texture in baked items is different though.
• Saccahrine (Sweet’n Low in pink packets) is somewhat heat stable but only in combination with conventional sugar. 

A few more sugary names for you Sweetie Pie

• sucrose comes from beets or sugar cane
• sugar from sweet fruits and honey is called glucose
• cane sugar and grape sugar is called dextrose
• fruit sugar is called fructose
• milk sugar is called lactose
• malt sugar is called maltose

All chemical sugar substitute cocktails allow a consumer to cut calories while enjoying treats that may be not acceptable due to diet restrictions. Artificial sweeteners are chemicals, not food! They have no calories because they don’t nourish the body. They’re toxins your body has to get rid of. Research and experience with these types of sweeteners is limited and not sufficient. In a way we’re the laboratory rats – time will tell.

(stevia has it's place in my pantry at home) 

The Future might be brighter
Stevia or sugar leaf is a plant sugar substitute available either fresh, dried or in liquid form.  This one is actually from nature no strings attached totally “au natural” and it’s about 250 times sweeter than sugar but also has a licorice-like aftertaste.  Sufficient research has not been done yet - or there might be a conspiracy going on from the artificial sweetener industry. Stevia has been popular in Japan since the 1970s and is widely used as an alternative to artificial sweeteners. It may be useful as a natural sweetener for diabetics.

(a bitter green salad with pears and pomegranate vinaigrette needed a few drops of stevia to balance the natural bitterness) 

 

 

 

WHAT TO DO WITH NOVEMBER'S JACK-O'-LANTERNS? - the blog

What to Do With November’s Jack-o-Lanterns?
Two weeks ago we went to a pumpkin festival and had a blast with our toddler daughter on the hayrides. Perhaps it was the spiked cider or the little donuts but it was a particularly fun day. We ended up dragging large pumpkins home where we carved scary faces into it.  Halloween went by with the usual noise and craziness on the streets and we took our little baby witch trick or treating. Now a week later all the pumpkins sprinkled around the apartment seem to be in the way. So I decided to do some pumpkin cooking …

(my little which daughter carves pumpkins)

A quick brain storming session about pumpkin dishes brought about a bounty of recipes: satisfying velvety soup, smooth puree enriched with cheese, baked gratin speckled with pistachios, pickled pumpkin with jalapenos that leaves you wanting another, pumpkin strips softened with a sprinkle of sea salt tossed into salad, and of course last but not least, salivating pumpkin pie with whipped mascarpone cream with a touch of vanilla.

(pumpkins start getting in the way after Halloween) 

The multitude of pumpkins has made me produce dish after dish. Cooking with one main ingredient is actually convenient since a simple baked pumpkin can be the base of a whole bunch of recipes.

How to make a magic menu out of Jack o’-lanterns
Following is a pumpkin base recipe, which is the biggest hurdle of my pumpkin menu.


 (yep - the menu shall start with a brew)

Pumpkin Base Recipe
8 pounds pumpkin (seriously, jack o’-lanterns are perfectly acceptable as long as they’re cooked)
1-tablespoon flavor-neutral oil such as canola or grape-seed
Depending on the size of pumpkin you’re using. Cut small pumpkins up to 10 inches in half and larger pumpkins in fourths or sixths etc.  If there are seeds in the pumpkin scrape them out with a kitchen spoon.

1. Brush a baking sheet pan with the neutral oil.
2. Distribute pumpkin pieces over the baking sheet pan.
3. In a 350 degree Fahrenheit oven bake pumpkin pieces for 60 minutes. Pumpkin pieces should be soft when pierced with a small knife – if they’re still hard continue to bake for 20 minutes longer.
4. Cool the pumpkin pieces for 20 minutes on the kitchen counter.
5. With a kitchen spoon scoop/scrape the soft pumpkin from the skin and combine the “flesh” in a pot.
6. Over low heat setting cook the pumpkin stirring constantly with a kitchen wire whisk or a fork for five minutes or until all chunks are completely mashed-up.

Now you have the pumpkin base. Whipping up dishes should be become rather easy. The following recipes yield four servings.

(pumpkin soup w. chicken and Napa cabbage)

Pumpkin Velvet Soup
1 part (2 cups) pumpkin puree

3 parts (6 cups) broth such as chicken or vegetable

4 tablespoons orange juice

Sea salt, to taste

Black pepper grindings, to taste

A pinch of the following ground spices will give your soup its character: cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg

• Simmer ingredients on low heat setting for 30 minutes.

Optional garnishes added just before serving: snipped chive, croutons, toasted pumpkin seeds, unsweetened coconut milk in a spiral pattern scooped on the surface of the soup.

(pumpkin puree with cheese and purple oregano) 

Baked Pumpkin Gratin

4 cups pumpkin base
½ cup nuts such as pistachios, pecans, cashews, walnuts 
Sea salt, to taste
Seasoning suggestions:  pinch of ground cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper flakes
2 ounces sharp flavored hard cheese such as Spanish sheep’s milk Idiazabal or Manchego
1 tablespoon Oregano leaves

1. Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Toast nuts in a skillet over medium heat setting until browned.
3. Combine pumpkin base, toasted nuts and spices in pot and heat throughout.
4. Transfer hot pumpkin mixture into a heat proof serving dish. 
5. Bake pumpkin mixture for 20 minutes in the hot oven.
6. With a vegetable peeler shave thin shreds from the cheese and sprinkle them over the baked pumpkin mixture just before serving. 

Chef’s Note: I recommend serving baked pumpkin gratin with braised beef dishes. 

(pumpkin pie with whipped cream and honey glazed pecans) 

Pumpkin Pie

(8-inch tart shell)
2-½ cups pumpkin base
3 eggs¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons honey
8-inch wide baked tart shell (purchased from store or see recipe below)

1. Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Mix pumpkin base, eggs, cinnamon, honey in a mixing bowl with a wire whisk.
3. Pour pumpkin mixture into the baked tart shell.
4. Bake pumpkin mixture for 30 minutes in the hot oven.

Chef’s Note: If you like to make your own tart shell in a kitchen processor pulse together (equipped with blade attachment) 2 cups all purpose flour, ½ cup sugar, 1 stick of butter (4 oz) and one pinch of salt – this will form a ball. Rest the dough ball for 20 minutes in the refrigerator then rollout dough on a flowered kitchen counter. Line aluminum pie mold and press dough into the tin. With a table fork puncture tiny holes into the dough then bake in a 325 degrees oven for 20 minutes. Pour pumpkin mixture as above. 

Bye, bye jack-o’-lantern

(if all that cooking becomes to difficult you'll always can use a good pumpkin puree product with no additives) 

 

 

 

BRINING...A NO BRAINER - the blog

Brining simply means soaking your meat, fish or poultry for a specific time in salted water.   Often recipes include spices, herbs, juices and sometimes vegetables to introduce more flavors into the product.

When gaining weight is actually great
Brining promotes a change in the structure of proteins in the muscle by osmosis, which is the flow of water across a barrier from a place with a higher water concentration. The whole point of brining is to add moisture to meat, poultry and fish. If you weigh the product before and after brining you’ll happily realize a weight gain, in some scenarios even 10%. When the brined product is cooked it will be juicier because there is additional moisture. If you weigh the brined product again after cooking you’ll realize a weight loss of 15-20% whereas non-brined foods lose + or - 30% of their weight, nearly twice as much as brined foods!  So you see there is no reason not to brine.

(turkey in brine)

So what happens during brining?
Flavor
Salt in the brine plays a crucial role by helping with the retention of water. It locks the brine into the meat structure and hence makes the water less likely to evaporate during the cooking process. The result is more moist and flavorful meat, poultry and fish.

Texture
The salt modifies and softens the texture also. The salty liquid reacts with the muscle proteins and hence the brined food softens. It actually dissolves some proteins in the muscle fiber and the saline water gets trapped between these proteins when the meat cooks, as long as you don’t overcook the meat, which would cause this structure to tighten and squeeze out the trapped liquid.

The Whole Turkey or the Juicy Brined One?
For many years my whole turkey cooking experience - brined or not brined – was less than ideal.  The problem is that the parts require different temperatures and times to cook:  legs are just about done at around 160 – 165 degrees Fahrenheit and a turkey breast is perfectly moist at a temperature of 150 -155 degrees Fahrenheit. It means just about any turkey cooked whole is more or less under or over cooked resulting in dry “matter”. Unless your secret gravy recipe comes to help and smothers the whole spiel with homemade goodness it’s going to be a dry turkey, again.

(perfectly moist turkey)

Is the turkey hurting?
So last year in my restaurant I experimented with my Thanksgiving turnkey with a rather wacky technique. I put a heat resistant ice pack wrapper right on the turkey breast at a certain point during the cooking time which stopped the breast from cooking until the legs were done. To finish the turkey I gave it a few more minutes without the ice pack in the hot oven to get everything to a servable temperature and voila – this actually worked quite well - but not with 15 birds. So these days I cook brined turkey breast and legs separately.  This method is simple to execute and brought back the same satisfied faces year after year. That said I’m a briner.

Brining Tips

• Always brine foods in the refrigerator in cool liquid (+-40 degrees Fahrenheit). If temperature is too high add ice cubes.
• Some brining recipes include sugar - this balances the saltiness but technically has no effect on the brined food.
• Soft textured foods such as shrimp or fish filets need only a short brining time - 30 minutes is plentiful. Apply the rule of thumb one hour per pound of meat and poultry for brining times.  
• Kosher-style salt is a reliable brining ingredient. You can brine with sea salt, which is a lot more expensive though.
• Food should be totally immersed in the brine – this way the cooked food will taste equally flavorful.
• Adding spices, herbs or vegetables to brines seems wasteful to me and I would rather add them later on in the cooking process where they can better shine.

It takes only two minutes of your time to dissolve some salt in water for the following brine recipe.

(brined, shredded turkey in carrots juice)

Basic brine for fish, meat and poultry
1 cup Kosher-style salt
1-gallon water

• In a bowl combine salt and water then mix with a wire whisk until the salt has dissolved.

Chef’s Note: Depending on the mood or occasion, I add either apple juice, orange juice, vanilla extract, beer or something seasonal and fun to the above recipe. 

 

 

 

 

ESCAROLE - the blog

A leafy green-yellowish lettuce with a somewhat sturdy texture, bitter to the taste, escarole doesn’t sound like a pleasant vegetable but in combination with other foods it shines - I’ll add a little later to that. Escarole is in the same plant family as radicchio, and Belgian endive. Sometimes it is called broad-leafed friseé because of its curly resemblance.
I remember escarole from my mother’s cooking where she tossed it with farm-fresh potato salad with a light mustardy dressing. It’s an ideal salad to be combined with fall flavors such as pears, apples, nuts, blue cheese etc.
I’m intrigued by escarole and I romanticize it with visions of rustic Italian cooking like hearty stews, sausagey rosemary inflected dishes, tomato based Tuscan country cucina perhaps with basil aromas all accompanied with crusty Italian bread.  This is the fantasy portrayed in an advertisement for a commercial tomato sauce and it’s the feeling that escarole evokes in me.

(freshly dug escarole)

Some Nutritious Info 
Escarole is loaded with vitamin C the beloved antioxidant that helps to fight off cell damage and in fact repairs it. Other noteworthy vitamins in escarole are A and K.  Also it’s high in fiber and will move things perfectly along in the digestive system.  

Cooking with Escarole
This bean stew recipe is forgiving as not too much can go wrong with it and it is easy on the budget. The sausage adds a deep flavor character and spice.  Combine the stew with just about any sausage, which is suitable for steaming - my favorite is an Italian style sausage with deep pork flavor and faint garlic aroma. I buy my sausage from an Austrian sausage master maker per mail order. The escarole with it’s faint bitterness creates the perfect flavor balance besides adding a welcoming vegetable crunchy texture.

(fresh Italian sausage from the local butcher)

Borlotti Bean Stew with Escarole
(recipe yields four portions)
2 cups Borlotti beans (a.k.a kidney beans)
1 small branch rosemary
1 head escarole
4 links Italian sausages

1. Soak beans overnight or for six hours in water at room temperature.
2. Pour beans into a colander then rinse with water for two minutes.
3. In a gallon-sized pot combine beans, rosemary and four cups of water.
4. Cook beans on medium heat setting covered with a tight fitting lid for 60 minutes.
5. During the time the beans are cooking: Cut 1-inch of the bottom from escarole and cut leafs in 1-inch long pieces across. Fill a large bowl with water. Clean cut escarole leafs in the water then dry leaves in a salad spinner or on a kitchen paper towel.
6. With a pointy knife puncture each sausage three times – this will release the natural sausage juices during cooking.
7. Once the beans have cooked 60 minutes add the punctured sausage and cut escarole.
8. Mixture for 20 minutes at this point beans are soft, the sausage is cooked throughout and escarole is soft. 

(bean & escarole stew with Italian sausage)

Chef’s Note: The bean stew is best when it is allowed to sit for 20 minutes on the side of the stove and then served. Any leftover bean stew can be reheated the next day, which benefits the flavor wonderfully.  

 

 

 

 

 

UNDERCOVER STAR VEGETABLES - the blog

It seems parsnips never attract much attention. My fellow South American cooks often tell me when I drag a new root vegetables such as parsnips, rutabaga, turnips etc. into the kitchen  “In my country this is what the cows eat”. All I can say is those cows are well fed.

(naked parsnips)


A close cousin to carrots, parsnips are very similar in shape but much sweeter, ivory colored have an even better nutritional value.  So what’s up with their minor role in our culinary lives? Perhaps the simple fact that they are a bit more expensive and not as available all year around put them on a back burner for many. They have a deliciously vegetal and sweet flavor unlike any other vegetable so let’s explore.

(Meatloaf crusted in bulgur crust with parsnip chips at a recent dinner party)

Selecting
Avoid overgrown parsnips as they tend to be quite woodsy in the center and an unpleasant texture that you don’t want in your prepared dish. Naturally starchy they’ll remind you of potatoes in texture and palatability but they are much sweeter. Alex, one of my farmers I consult at the market, leaves parsnips in the soil over the winter months which makes them sweet like candy since the starches in the parsley root convert to natural sugars.  In the Fall, this is achieved by cooling parsnips to 32 degrees Fahrenheit. for about 10 – 14 days which makes them sweet and hence more expensive.
(slicing and soaking in water- drying on paper towel

(slicing and soaking in water)

(drying the water of parsnip slices)

(happily frying)

(drying off excessive grease)

It doesn’t always have to be a spud
I thought parsnip chips were the most novel thing when we had to painstakingly fry chips in olive oil slice by slice in a very fancy 3 Michelin stared restaurant in Europe.  These days you can buy them in the supermarket readily available perfectly crisped!

The texture of fried parsnip chips is simple amazing with a meaty soft center and a crispy outside – this you get when you cook’em yourself.  Be aware this stuff is addictive so you should keep a few people around to share this recipe otherwise you’ll be the one who finishes them.

Parsnip Chips
Recipe yields a snack for four

3 medium sized parsnips (about 10-inch long)
3 cups vegetable oil such as canola
sea salt to taste 

1. Peel parsnips.
2. Slice parsnips with a slicer such as a Mandolin. Cut the parsnips as thin as possible but obtaining still perfectly round slices.
3. Plunge the parsnips into a bowl filled with luke-warm water – this will “wash-out” the natural starch from the vegetable. Leave parsnips for 15 minutes in the water.
4. Heat oil in a 1-gallon sized pot.
5. Transfer the parsnip slices to a kitchen paper towel lined plate then dry them completely. Change the paper towel with new one if necessary to dry them.
6. The oil is hot enough when you drop a drop of water in it and it sizzles - if you have a kitchen thermometer it should show 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
7. Carefully lower the dried parsnip chips into the hot oil - be careful the oil will bubble wildly. I suggest frying the parsnip slices in two to three batches – this will not crowd the frying pot.
8. Stir the frying parsnip slices with a slotted spoon – this will prevent the parsnip slices from sticking together and it will brown them evenly.
9. The parsnip chips are ready when they have a golden brown color.
10. Transfer the chips to a kitchen paper lined plate and sprinkle them right away with sea salt – this will make sure the salt sticks to the chips.
11. Fry the rest of the raw parsnip slices.

Chef’s Note: Potato chips need a condiment such as ketchup – parsnips don’t – they're perfect with a crispy outside and soft center.

 

 

SQUASH ADDICTION - the blog

(it's the season squash, squash...) 

If you want to experience the bounty of seasonal squash you must visit a farmer’s market now. Different hues of orange, shades of brown, green, yellow, striped, dotted and more variations are abundant. Some have warty growths on their shells and range from tiny to huge. This is seasonal squash right now. I’m overwhelmed every year and find myself snapping pictures until I’ve had my fill visually and in my stomach. Am I addicted to it?

(seasonal gourds galor)

Baked Squash Preparation
It’s hard to choose among the variety but let’s highlight spaghetti squash because it differs not only in flavor but really in texture. Yellow or ivory colored it sits heavy, weighty on the kitchen counter. Certainly a strong chef’s knife comes in handy to cut off top and bottom – I have seen people take squash on with a cleaver!

(ends cut off)                     (apple cider spiced)

(squash spaghetti) 

This will give you more stability to be able to cut this hunk of a vegetable all the way through. Leave the seeds in place and they can be easily removed after cooking.  

For seasoning l like to keep it simple, I love to add flavors of autumn such as apple cider spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, just a touch of clove - which are a terrific fit - and the usual sea salt and fresh pepper. I’m a big fan of roasting squash on a cookie sheet pan with the cut-side facing up. I have realized cooking squash this way yields tastier results since it’s natural juice gets concentrated during the cooking process.

Depending on the size it takes 1 ½ - 2 hours in a 345 degree hot oven to get to the point where it’s soft enough to get that stringy texture and similar look to cooked spaghetti pasta. You know it’s done when the blade of a small knife can be inserted into the squash without getting any uncooked vegetable resistance. Remove the seeds with a kitchen spoon and discard, then remove the yellow spaghetti squash “meat” and now you’ll realize its stringy consistency where its names from. A sprinkle of good extra virgin olive oil and a touch of sea salt will do wonders for the mild flavored spaghetti squash.

(pretty pumpkins) 

Tasty and Nutritious
Spaghetti squash is abundant in vitamin A, C and beta carotene and also has a good amount of potassium. It is low in calories yet leaves that satisfying taste and feel in your mouth seeming starchy in a good way without being too filling.

Over the years to my guests I have come to realize that it is actually the texture that makes people excited about this squash – it’s the stand-out among the many squash varieties.

Chef’s Note: Uncooked squash does not have to be refrigerated it can stay at room temperature for up to three months. 

 

"SWEET" KIDS CEREAL

As my toddler daughter grows up I get to stroll through different aisles in the supermarket and witness Arabella’s amazement with the cartoon characters she finds on a wall of cereal boxes.

(corn flakes, peaches and grapes with yogurt) 

A few mascots might have contributed to the success of cereal makers such as Kellog’s with Cornelius the green rooster in the early years and Tony the Tiger still hot to this day.  Everyone know Lucky Charms’ leprechaun telling us “they’re magically delicious” brought to us by General Mills another giant in cereal making. Quaker is a well known leader in cereal making and owns popular brands like Cap’n Crunch.

It probably comes as no surprise that the ingredient list of these popular “kids” cereals read like a candy bar and taste like candy which is probably why they do several billion dollars in business each year. If you calculate the added sugar content from an average cereal box it results to three teaspoons per serving.

(no Tony the tiger, no Cap'n Crunch...)

If you are like our family and try to cut down or even eliminate sugar and artificial ingredients from the staple foods like cereal then you probably turn your kids’ eyes and your own to “healthier” brands.  But here’s the disappointing news – nearly every one of the cereals in health food mega stores like Whole Foods or Trader Joe’s contain sugar.  True the amount of sugar is less than the big commercial brands and true they have fancier names like “organically milled cane sugar” or “cane juice” but a rose by any other name …. Shouldn’t sugar be a treat and not snuck into your kids bran flakes and foods dressed up to look healthy?  I think so and therefore have taken cereal making into my own hands. 

What is a cereal?
It’s the family of grains (rice, wheat, millet, maize, barley, rye, quinoa, buckwheat) composed of bran (the out side layer of grain), which is nutritious and high in fiber, the germ and endosperm which is rich in vitamins, minerals, carbs, good fats and protein.

It didn’t start that sweet
Corn flakes is certainly one of the more popular breakfast items worldwide and it was actually developed accidentally.  Dr John Harvey Kellogg was in charge of a food program for a sanatorium where bland food was served. He believed that spicy or sweet foods increase passion which he did not welcome in the sanatorium.  He developed a flavorless wheat mixture which in his believe had an anaphrodisac effect and lowered the sex drive. As the story goes some cooked wheat was left to sit out for a long period of time unintentionally and became stale and was then processed through a dough sheeter in the hope of obtaining long sheets of that wheat mixture.  But what came out instead were little flakes which they toasted and served to the sanatorium patients and they loved it. A patent was filed shortly thereafter and issued in 1896. Different recipes were developed out of that process one was corn flakes with a good amount of sugar added for palatability and the rest is history.

A few responsible cereal options

Granola
Our friend Reuben came by the other day and brought us a home-made batch of delicious granola and inspired our cereal crusade and sparked my appreciation for these toasted oats. Granola usually consists of rolled oats and nuts, sweetened with honey. It gets its addictive crispy-crunchy texture from baking, often dried fruits such as grapes, blueberries, dates, etc. are added to boost sweetness and flavor. In our family we love to snack throughout the day on granola straight out of the box without adding anything. For breakfast I like to add sliced banana for it’s soft texture and some sort of fresh fruit such as raspberries or strawberries for their bright color and natural tartness which makes the eating more interesting especially for my toddler daughter who loved Reuben’s recipe. She’s currently going through her crazy twos  and granola has become our reward snack of choice. 

(Bells eating her morning cereal)

Müsli
Growing up I remember eating Bircher Müsli back in Austriae, which is similar to granola. Müsli is made with uncooked rolled oats, which is soaked in water overnight to soften.  It is meant to be consumed with fresh fruits such as thinly sliced apples and berries in addition to hazelnuts, yoghurt, milk and sweetened with honey. These days Müsli can be found conveniently in instant versions on the supermarket shelves (but be sure to read the ingredients!).

To get you started following is a granola recipe – it’s really simple and everybody will love it.

(home-made granola) 

Granola Recipe
(recipe yields four portions for snaking or to be consumed with milk or yoghurt)

2 cups rolled oats
1 cup slivered almonds and/or a mix out of chopped cashews, hazelnuts, pecans
            sunflower seeds, pistachios, walnuts
½ cup maple syrup
2 pinch sea salt
¼ cup dried fruits such as raisins, cranberries, blueberries
1 teaspoon vegetable oil such as canola

1. In a bowl mix oats, nuts, maple syrup, salt and dried fruits with a kitchen fork.
2. Brush a cookie sheet pan with vegetable oil. If you don’t have a brush dip a kitchen paper towel into vegetable oil then coat the sheet with it.
3. Bake in a 280 degree Fahrenheit hot oven for 45 minutes.
4. Cool granola then transfer into an airtight container.

Chef’s Note:  experiment with spice powders such as cinnamon, star anis, coriander, ginger, cayenne and such they add an interesting note to the granola recipe.

 

 

CRUCIFEROUS VEGETABLES - the blog

On my last trip to the farmer’s market I noticed that carrots got smaller which is a sure sign of the season changing and the next bundle of vegetables to come.

On the east coast we’ve already had a few cool days. Cruciferous cabbage vegetables will soon appear on the vegetable stand – start to look for white cabbage, red cabbage, Savoy cabbage, kale, mustard greens, bok choy, kohlrabi, cauliflower, broccoli and so on. These vegetables will be plentiful seeming like seasonal flowers with their many leafy layers. The first batch of local Brussels sprouts will hit the market in about 10 days – can’t wait for it. 

(Napa cabbage "loaves")
There is one cabbage that has particularly caught my attention  – Napa cabbage. The first impression will remind you of a big bushy head of romaine but once picked up the weightiness will most likely surprise you. Napa cabbage is a handsome looking vegetable with thick white veins that end in thin branches running through the leaves. The lightly curled edged leaves are tender and have an addictive crunchy texture.  Eaten simply raw one gets that sweet cabbage flavor which pairs very nicely with a spicy tomato-based sauce.  Ideally your tomato sauce should have a thick consistency so that it coats the chopped leaves well. Following is one of my favorite raw Napa cabbage preparations.

(open-face lasagne with napa cabbage, bok choy and a spicy tomato sauce) 

 (fall vegetable casserole)

Spicy Tomato Dressing
(recipe yields four portions)
2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves
1 bay leaf
1 clove garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon hot sauce such as Sriracha
1 cup canned plum tomatoes
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
sea salt, to taste

1.     Chop oregano and bay leaf finely.
2.     In a mixing bowl crush tomatoes with a table fork.
3.     Add other ingredients to the crushed tomatoes

Napa Cabbage
1 Napa cabbage
Spicy Tomato Dressing (above recipe)

1.     Cut  ½-inch of  Napa cabbage bottom then peel off outer leaves and discard.
2.     Cut Napa cabbage lengthwise into six wedges then cut across into mouth- sized squares.
3.     Rinse Napa cabbage with water then dry in a salad spinner or on a kitchen paper towel.
4.     In a bowl toss Napa cabbage and spicy tomato dressing.

Nutrition
Napa cabbage has a few healthy surprises

- A generous quantity of vitamin K and C
- a cholesterol lowering effect
- cancer preventing properties

Plus Napa cabbage is low in calories and makes your stomach feel satiated.

(bok choy)                     (Brussels sprouts) 

…more delicious serving suggestions to make Napa cabbage shine
Steamed
Napa cabbage steamed for a few minutes works well with solid flavors such as braised pork for or grilled salmon.
Sautee
Stir-frying in a bit vegetable oil such as grape seed or canola works well for a sautéed version of Napa cabbage. I recommend adding some crushed peanuts, for crunch in addition to flavor and a touch of unsweetened coconut milk for richness and roughly chopped cilantro will make the flavors jump.
Grilled
Cut Napa cabbage into large wedges and sprinkle with olive oil. Grill the leaves on all sides. Serve on a large platter sprinkled with some thinly shaved hard cheese such as sharp Manchego from Spain.  Chopped sun-dried tomatoes add tasty colorful speckles to the dish.
Mac & Cheese
I have been working on a cheese book project for a while now and developed a recipe with chopped Napa cabbage and cherry tomatoes – to be revealed in the book!

 

PUMPKIN SEEDS -the blog

I relate to pumpkin seed and its oil like an Italian to his olives. When pumpkin season starts it moves to the top of my ingredient list.  I’m accustomed to the taste from growing up in Austria where pumpkin seed oil dressings would leave dark green residue on white salad plates, the shiny hue seemed like a greenish-golden color.

(golden-greenish hue left on the plate - pumpkin seed oil)

Nutrients
Pumpkin seed oil is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids and is a rich source of zinc and magnesium. It is said that pumpkin seed products may contribute to male prostate health as well as contributing to good bone density for all. 

Pumpkin seed oil
Hulled pumpkin seeds get lightly roasted in the production of oil similar to coffee bean roasting. In addition to the heritage of the seeds, the toasting process is one of the key stages in the making.

At it’s very best pumpkin seed oil is pressed in the “extra virgin” manner where it does not create nor require any heat leaving all the nutrient value and exceptional flavor intact.

(toasted pumpkin seeds and squash) 


(rigatoni with kale, pumpkin seed and pumpkin seed oil) 

A “Light” Oil with no let down
Pumpkin seed oil should be used in room temperature or cold prepared recipes - meaning you should not cook with it since it would destroy its qualities.  I recommend substituting it for extra virgin olive oil in some dishes.  However, its flavor is intense and a little goes a long way so I suggest using only 1/4 – 1/3 of the amount of olive oil that you would use.  This flavor concentration makes it comparatively light. 

 (roasted quinoa with late harvest carrots and paprika sprinkled with pumpkin seeds) 

The versatility of the dark gold makes this oil a staple in my refrigerator. I use it frequently in dressings, a drizzle on soups such as potato or as a finishing oil. The exquisite taste of the toasty oil is amazing paired with lentils – a favorite of mine. It even has a place in desserts, just try a few drops on vanilla ice cream – a secret delicious combo. The viscosity of pumpkin seed oil is velvety and silky and next to other oils is like cream compared with milk.
Chef ‘s Note: Interestingly the oil appears green in thin and red layers giving it a shine like a rainbow would when poured out.

Preparing Pumpkin Seeds:

1. remove seeds from the pumpkin’s inner cavity
2. remove excess pulp and spread seeds out over a cookie sheet pan covered with parchment paper
3. dry seeds overnight
4. the next day toast them in a 180 degree hot oven for 30 minutes.

Chef’s Preparation & Serving Suggestions:

• in a skillet heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil then roast pumpkin seeds continuously shaking pan back and forth – sprinkle with sea salt
• toss pumpkin seeds into sautéed seasonal vegetables such as carrots, kale, Swiss chard
• grind pumpkin seeds in a blender with lemon juice, olive oil and fresh Italian parsley to make a pumpkin seed/parsley pesto – toss this before serving into pasta

Oil Quality
I have tried a few different brands from different whereabouts that were not all impressive. Some oils suffered from smeary texture and burned flavor from over-roasting probably made in big batches the best to my means come from Austria. A good pumpkin seed oil has subtly sweet and nutty taste with a smell like an unripe almond. The texture of the oil when applied to the back of your hand feels silky like good skin oil. The opposite is often true sometimes it resembles almost something like motor oil – this might sound extreme but what’s the point. I think an Austrian pumpkin seed oil is a safe buy – I might be biased growing up there thought.  

 

 

RICE COOKER - THE GREAT MULTI-TASKER - the blog

Other than for cooking rice what’s the use of a rice cooker?  I have been wondering about this lately.  Sometimes you don't’ have the option of dragging in a commercial cooking range to do the cooking at catering event or for out of home cooking, so rice cookers have done wonders for me. It worked perfectly where open flames were not an option (e.g. museum, consulate). Also if you have a tiny apartment and need an extra hot spot there is your friend the rice cooker. Another factor is that rice cookers hold the heat within compared to a cooking vessel on the stovetop, which radiates a lot of heat and energy, particularly disturbing on a hot summer day. Let’s face it, it is simple to fill a rice cooker vessel and push one button - the hardest part is to wait until the food is cooked!

What To Cook
Beside the obvious rice I find it easy to cook plenty else with great success.  Grains such as quinoa, wheat berries, faro, beans, steel cut oats, polenta and even risotto shine when cooked in the rice cooker. Vegetables by themselves such as cabbage, carrots, Swiss chard etc. have great results, so flavorful. I call these braising vegetables, which are different than quick cooking vegetables such as peas, and asparagus. One pot food wonders like hot pot soups, stews, and sauces are the most ideal meals to be cooked in that rice cooker vessel with its electrical no-brain supervision.

Once you have figured out the time to cook a few recipes in a rice cooker you realize the options are limitless and you’re free to hit the button and leave instead of watching the stove.

Warm Holding
A warm holding option after the food has been cooked is a tremendous asset as you are able to keep food hot for a long period of time at a safe temperature where bacteria growth is unlikely to happen (above 150 degrees).  This comes in handy if you need to step away during the cooking process like my spouse does often when she is negotiating our toddler daughter’s busy play schedule.

Entertaining at home becomes easy without looking like a total mess in the kitchen since the holding capabilities give you plenty of time to get things organized and cleaned up before your guests arrive.

Hopeful Future
What you can’t do is grill in a rice cooker, for now, but that is just another invention away.  I’ve heard of stories where people made bread, cakes, egg dishes and more in a rice cooker!  This tells me there is still plenty to be discovered for us.
 
(millet in the rice cooker before and after cooking)


Braised Napa Cabbage w. Spices
(recipe yields four portions) 
1 head Napa Cabbage
1-tablespoon vegetable oil          
2 cloves garlic, peeled
½ teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon cumin
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon cayenne
¼ teaspoon cardamom

1.     Halve cabbage with knife then cut hard core out of bottom. Pick deep-green outer leaves from         cabbage and discard.
2.     Cut cabbage halves into ½-inch wide strips.
3.     Put oil and garlic into the rice cooker, close lid then push “cook” button.
4.     After two minutes add cabbage and spices then close and push “cook“ button.
5.     Cook cabbage for 35 minutes.
6.     Serve immediately or put on the “hold setting” to keep the cabbage warm for an extended time         period.
 
(Nappa cabbage & spices before and after cooking) 

Chef’s Note: Be careful when you open the lid – scalding hot steam escapes!
Some rice cookers have settings for a range of foods but all of them have a cook and hold button, which is totally sufficient.
 
The theme of that day was vegetarian friendly dishes cooked in the rice cooker.
(left picture tofu, bok choy, buckwheat cabbage) 
(right barley risotto, baby spinach, string beans, Shisisto peppers with a sprinkle of Gruyere) 

In case you always wanted to know why rice washing is important?
Rice is washed before cooking with clear water to rinse off impurities, bran and starch which will result in light fluffy rice.

SWEET POTATO CASSEROLE - the blog

A comforting dish like sweet potato casserole has been on my mind since I saw gorgeous sweet potatoes at the local market recently. I never saw sweet potatoes until I came to the US where they are a staple on many holiday tables – not that you don’t know that!  Thanksgiving pops into my mind immediately when I think of them like a mental bridge to a beautiful, festive table setting with abundant food and somewhere in the middle you’ll find sweet potato dish. Just thinking about Thanksgiving puts a smile on my face.

(Sweet potatoes or yams?)

Sweet Potato Farming
I learned from my farmers that sweet potatoes are a bit tricky to grow: they’re not resistant to frost or draught and are not tolerant to water logging and also require good aeration in terms of storage since they develop tuber rot rather quickly. On the other side sweet potatoes grow in poor soils with little or no fertilizers. The fast growing vine inhibits weed growth since it covers the soil - it shades out weeds – so it barely needs weeding. 

How Sweet Those Nutrients!
Besides being fleshy and having a pretty orange color sweet potatoes are rich in complex carbohydrates, dietary fiber, beta carotene which is a key antioxidant, vitamin A, C, B6 and various minerals such as iron and calcium. Let’s face it sweet potatoes are rated excellent among the world’s healthiest foods since they’re plentiful available in many different parts of the world.
 
(cooking, steaming, mashing)
 
(toasted nuts, spices - all mixed together) 

Cooking
Sweet potatoes are simple to cook and are naturally delicious, ready-to serve. Just a pinch of this and a sprinkle of that and they are ready to be devoured.

Baked Sweet Potato Casserole with Mozzarella
(recipe yields four side-sized portions)

1 cup walnuts
1 branch rosemary, about 5-inches long
3 lb sweet potatoes
½ cup Kosher-style salt
Sea salt, to taste
Fresh black pepper grindings, to taste
2 pinch cinnamon powder
½ nutmeg, freshly grated
4 ounces or 6 thin slices of locally produced Mozzarella

1.     Preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.
2.     Sprinkle walnuts into a baking pan then toast in oven for 8 minutes or until browned.
3.     Strip leaves of rosemary stem then cut finely.
4.     Sprinkle 1/2 cup of salt over bottom of a baking pan then put sweet potatoes on top. Cover pan with aluminum foil tightly then cook in hot oven for 1 h 30 minutes or until soft when pierced with a small knife.
5.     Cool potatoes for ten minutes then peel and put into a large bowl and add walnuts, sea salt, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg and rosemary then mash and stir with a fork.
6.     Transfer sweet potato mixture into an ovenproof baking dish then put cheese on top. Bake casserole for five minutes and serve immediately.

Chef’s Tip: Try different nuts in the sweet potato recipe such as hazelnuts or for a special treat pecans.

Did You Know
The true yam is an entirely separate species of vegetables that grows only in the tropics  - so NO a sweet potato is not a yam. Sweet potatoes belong to the morning glory family and true yams belong to the Dioscoreaceae family – whatever that means.  

 

MOTHER OF GRAIN - QUINOA - the blog

The Incas grew this grain and revered it. Traditionally the emperor would sow the first seeds with a golden shovel.  Don’t you think we should appreciate it more?Interestingly, quinoa is actually not a grain (since it’s not a grass plant) but is actually related to beets and leafy greens such as spinach and Swiss chard. Early colonists forbade the Incas from growing their “grain”  and had them plant wheat instead and so wheat took over.

 
(quinoa on a bed of baby spinach) 

(look for pre-washed quinoa, sometimes you can find red and/or black quinoa it will cook the same way)  

Hearty Quinoa
Quinoa is undemanding in terms of growing and even withstands high altitudes like the Chilean Andes among other places.  It and can even withstand low chilling temperatures through the night and high heat during the day.  Early frostbites do not harm hearty quinoa.  And yet its taste and texture is light and gentle.

Eating Quinoa
Quinoa is a nutritional powerhouse with terrific protein content plus a whole palate of minerals and vitamins.  Vegetarians love quinoa because it is a complete protein in fact. 
After harvest bitter tasting Saponins on the outer layer of the seeds have to be removed which is usually done commercially before it hits the market shelves. Saponins are used in laundry detergent and to clean skin as an antiseptic.  So because it is mildly toxic, it is not a bad idea to re-rinse quinoa in a fine mesh sieve until it has no more bitterness when tasted – just to be on the safe side.
Quinoa’s fluffiness reminds me of cous cous. I had great success substituting quinoa in many rice recipes and had great success more or less reducing the cooking time which is a welcome time saver.

(LEFT; carrots, celery onion and spices cooked then add quinoa and cook covered) 

Vegetable Quinoa
(recipe yields four side portions)

1 onion
2 clove garlic
3 carrots
3 stalks of green celery
2 tablespoons vegetable oil such as canola
1 teaspoon thyme
2 cups quinoa
4 cups water
1 teaspoon sea salt such as Baline

1. Peel onion, garlic and carrots. Slice vegetables and celery thinly (1/8-inch thick).
2. In a pot (1-gallon sized) heat vegetable oil on medium heat setting then cook vegetables. Season vegetables with salt and pepper and continue to cook for 10 minutes stirring frequently.
3. Add quinoa and water then cook for 30 minutes.

Chef’s Tip: Quinoa is cooked once the seeds are “al dente” – meaning it still has texture to the tooth. Another indicator quinoa is cooked is when the germ divides from the seeds.

(click to enlarge - in this way you'll see the little germ divides from the seed) 

Early Bird
Try some freshly cooked quinoa for breakfast with some nuts and fruits such as berries – you’ll love it. If you have a bird feed him some raw quinoa seeds he’ll love it too.

 

 

 

 

 

SUSTAINABILITY IS BUZZING - the blog

 
(our daughter Arabella inspecting the salad crop at a local farm)

I’ve come across many buzzwords for growing vegetables since I’ve been visiting local farms. Though conversations with the insiders – the farmers-- I’m finally starting to figure out what all of’em mean. My eyes opened wide with astonishment when I understood what it meant that a farm is organic or better certified organic or what other farmers proudly boast as 100% not certified. This means a farm has its own sustainable standards. This eco-food-jargon really spiked my interest to dig further.

(to be or not do be - that remains the question!)

Being in Lala Land
A romantic mental picture of a farmer hunting in his fields for the daily crop is all what we need to imagine to pick up that bunch of deep juicy, saturated Swiss chard from the vegetable aisle. It puts us right in a farmer’s “Alice in Wonderland.”  But let’s face it there is a lot more to it than merely growing au natural, laissez-faire. We don’t think about farming techniques like crop rotation that keep the nutrients in the soil balanced, or field flooding which keep pests and drought at bay. Others try to achieve excellent farming results via vertical farming which is a year-round production method in a technical facility where a crop is in isolation protecting it from pest and disease. Pest management is not that easy like having your daughter’s lady bug collection moves out to the farmer’s field to eat the bad bug guys. I saw farmers killing the bad bugs one by one in an “organic” way by hand – is this what pest management looks like - who knows. I spoke with farmers who use IPM (integrated pest management), which is an acceptable pesticide control program it monitors, identifies and prevents outbreaks or in other words controls them. Trapping of the crop and weeding are some measures.  Other methods utilize appropriate custom measured partially natural spraying mixtures of vinegar, salt and such very similar compared to used in organic field.  
 
(organic beets) 
 
 The Business of Organics
I was surprised by polls taken in 2006 - 2008 that people actually don’t trust “organic” produce that much anymore. Many consumers seem to shift to “natural” produce. What I noticed is that “organic” farms are rather small, usually not much over 5 -10 hectares, which mean it is not much of a business in the American sense. That said a balanced ecological field actually yields slightly more than a chemically sprayed field.  But the challenge to be truly “organic” with governmental approval or not is that it takes time and patience to cultivate this nutritionally balanced soil bed.

“CNG” stands for “certified naturally grown” and is a non-profit alternate farm assurance that thrives on high organic standards without being “certified organic” and it caters to local customers. A grower must keep detailed records of planting, cultivation, fertilization, etc. and only certified seeds may be used. All in all the CNG label or procedure keeps the paperwork at bay for the farmer and puts them back to work in the field. It’s worth mentioning that there is an enormous volunteer effort to run this organization. 

(Who needs perfectly straightened carrots?)

No cosmetic surgery
I appreciate the cool down-with-it looking naturally grown fruits and vegetables. Hey, it does not have to be perfectly round, shiny or uniformly colored.  Just let’s compare it to art. Last week I bought an unshapely $5 tomato – yes one weird looking heirloom tomato. I tell you it was treated more like a jewel than a vegetable. I touched and rinsed that fruit like I was putting my little daughter to sleep – with soft touch and care.
Food sold at a remote location, whether at a farmer’s market or the local supermarket, incurs a different set of energy costs for materials and transport.

Supporting small farms and locally sourced products will have the big growing companies start rethinking, eventually. The already destroyed eco system has to be taken care of and subjects like crop rotation, chemical pesticide management and many more aggressive farming steps that force commercial growth and unnaturally high yields must be changed. It’s been making us sick – it’s like putting a sign up which reads cancer for sale nicely disguised in a vegetable wrap!

(Do I need to say more?)

Something worth mentioning - back to the future
I remember seeing a sci-fi movie where plants were grown up high into the sky and harvested by dragon like birds Avatar style. It happens to some degree already in NYC where vegetables are planted and harvested on rooftops now we just need the big birds then we’re set.

 

 

 

ODDS & ENDS the blog

I get excited buying vegetables and fruits at the Green Market with its beautiful abundance of natural colors and shapes – just think of the diverse shapes and colors of Heirloom tomatoes! This often leads me to over-buy. It’s not necessarily the quantity but the variety of vegetables that tend to crowd the refrigerator crisper.  When Sunday comes all that remains in the weekend house refrigerator are odds and ends and snips and slices of various items.  Taking a look right now I find one piece of corn, one yellow tomato, some leftover pretzels from movie night, a few slices of pumpernickel bread, one perfectly ripe apricot and a doughnut peach and a few miscellaneous pantry items. Finding a recipe for this palette of culinary treats is like winning the lottery – it’s probably not going to happen.

This is the time for an all-in-one cooking utensil like  a skillet for a casserole or a big salad bowl for a “kitchen-sink” type of salad simply chopped and tossed. A home cook’s skill and the artistic touch come into play or my chef’s tricks might come in handy for you. Certainly it begins with how you shop throughout the week that determines how great this Sunday clearing-out-the-fridge dinner can be.
 


 
(The above dish is an example of odd and ends & this-and-that ingredient. I called it corn-nut milk mac with pumpernickel-mozzarella crust)

When we make pasta dishes there is usually cooked pasta left over -- I simply do not cook only a half box of pasta. I bet you have thrown out partially opened pasta boxes or made yourself feel bad with a disastrously cooked pasta dish made out of 3-4 different kinds of pasta. It’s a good idea to cook pasta and sauce separately so that the pasta can be used up in different dishes such as salad or baked casserole.  

We always seem to have fresh avocado in the fridge since our daughter loves it. I keep the pit in the partially cut avocado and make sure it is stored in an airtight container such as Tupperware to prevent oxidation and darkening.

(Chopped & tossed greens, peach, avocado, tomato, greens with tortilla crisps/”croutons” with yogurt/basil dressing)

Yogurt is among my favorite foods and we purchase large containers in our household.  Often there are several containers of different flavors and brands in the refrigerator.  These miscellaneous bottom of the barrel yogurts plus the almost bottomed out fruit bowl makes a terrific light dinner dessert. Another use for a little amount of yogurt is a summery tart dressing concoction with THE addition of a spritz of refreshing lemon juice, also a great use for a few leaves of that favorite herb previously picked up at the farmer’s market. Doesn't basil always seem to come in too large of a bunch unless you’re into making pesto where you need tons.  A few grindings of fresh pepper and a sprinkle of salt seal the dressing deal. 

(pretzels and nuts make great crunchy additions to salads, olives peps up the flavor) 

(this and that plenty for an exciting tossed salad bowl)

Salad Croutons – no need to make or buy these, just use the leftover pita chips from the prior night’s snacking party simply broken into pieces and then strewn over a salad. Do the same with tortilla chips, pretzels, old-baked bread and even salted nuts. In combination with cheese, crunchy snacks like that make a great crust in baked casserole dishes.

We made it a rule to dress our salads at the dinner table so that if we can’t finish the portion – which happens often -- I put the rest in a zip-loc style bag which keeps it crisp for a few more days. You can also store leafy greens refrigerated in the salad spinner or simply a plastic bag will do the trick.

Chef’s note on refrigerator organization
A crisper – the two to three drawer sections usually located on the bottom of your refrigerator is destined for vegetables. Bulby veggies such as onions and garlic should be stored separately unless you prefer a garlicky perfumed note to your peaches and berries.

 

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LEAFY GREEN ECONOMICS -the blog

(rainbow Swiss chard stems)

Over the years I have noticed leafy greens are one of the most frequently asked for vegetables.  With spinach ranking number one on the list it becomes not only boring for us cooks but also a challenge - the current weather conditions of high humidity and a very wet Spring, heat levels out of whack has taken its toll on these favorite greens and the supply is relatively sparse.
Spinach is certainly pretty to look at with its deep green color tones, curly tips, or the more civilized smooth edged baby spinach with silky texture. Baby spinach cooking is a breeze as it only needs a breath of hot air then it’s wilted and ready to eat.

(baby spinach at Satur farm on Long Island)

The Other Leafy Greens
Other greens came to my attention as I was looking for some diversity like bright green mustard greens which are tender and naturally spicy flavored, close to Dijon-style mustard.  I like them tossed into salad - no cooking needed.

(Swiss chard bunches from Garden of Eve farm on Long Island)

Beet Greens are nice to look at with their beautiful crimson red veins reaching through the leaves with the beetroots still attached.  It surprises me when at the Farmer’s market I witness that the greens usually get cut off at customers’ requests and put in the trash pile. This is a super tasty green that I put to great use in my kitchen.   

Kale, naturally beautiful, often has a purple-green hue in its color coordination and a festive twisty-ridged shape. These leaves are a bit sturdier and stand up to robust taste cousins such as bacon, ham hocks and it requires a longer cooking time in order to get it palatable.  

Collard greens are a cousin of cabbage and are loose leafed with a distinctively strong flavor. It’s comparable to kale in terms of cooking time and flavoring additions. It’s a definite staple in the southern US served year round usually with any type of smoked food addition.  

And then there is Swiss chard…
Swiss chard is grown in different colors from golden, deep red and white reminiscent of rainbow colors. It’s at it’s peak from late spring to early fall and it’s hot right now. It’s cultivated from the beetroot and spinach plant family and is grown for it’s thick, juicy stems and gigantic fan-like leaves. I have been obsessively cooking Swiss chard for the last two weeks. From steaming, to roasting and grilling it’s held up terrifically. Chard is exceptionally impressive in its nutrient content, packed with vitamin A and naturally high in potassium and sodium similar to celery. It’s also high in calcium, iron, and magnesium and it tastes so good.

(sauteing Swiss chard)

Swiss Chard Recipe
(recipe yields four side portions)
2 bunches Swiss chard red, white, golden or a mix of all
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
1-teaspoon vegetable oil
Sea salt, to taste
Fresh black pepper grindings

1.     In a pot (2-quart sized) bring salted water to boil.
2.     Rinse Swiss chard with water.
3.     Cut stems from Swiss chard. Cut stems into 2-inch long pieces.
4.     Boil Swiss chard leaves for 1 minute in water then transfer with a slotted spoon to an ice water         bath.
5.     Drain water from cooked stems and squeeze excess water from leaves.
6.     In a pot heat vegetable oil on high heat setting then add garlic, after 20 seconds add Swiss chard         stems and leaves.
7.     Season Swiss chard with pepper, soy sauce and heat throughout.

(roasted green Swiss chard) 

Chef’s Note: add ½ cup of cream for a creamed Swiss chard version of this recipe.  

Chef’s Note: If you decide to use red Swiss chard for this recipe it will tint your dish red. 

 

VEGETABLE CAVIAR - the blog

Vegetable Caviar
One of the many things I like about lentils is their colorful array: red green, yellow, brown and black, all differing slightly in size. In addition to their colorful looks they are collectively delicious, adding unique earthy flavors.  Sometimes lentils still have their skin attached and often they are split versus whole, so it makes sense that they have different cooking times which range anywhere from 10-40 minutes. My favorite is the French De Puy lentil with its caviar-like appearance, brownish-black with green speckles. In India and Egypt they are one of the most common foods and even comprise some of their national dishes. They are abundant in vegetarian dishes and in many stews like chicken and lamb.


(lentils with golden beets and raisins)


(French green lentils - my favorite) 


A tremendously healthy and robust food, lentils are a close competitor with soybeans and hemp seeds in their protein content.  They have plenty of fiber, folate (a/k/a Vitamin B9) which is particularly good for pregnant women, and loads of minerals and vitamin B1. Since they soak up water in your belly, they provide a satisfying feeling of fullness so you won’t be hungry anytime soon after consuming them.  All the way around lentils are a great tasting part of a healthy diet.

(brown lentils)

Lentils grow on bushes which are resistant to draughts. About one-third of the worldwide production comes from India and most of it is consumed in their domestic market.

(summery lentil dip with lime and corn chips)

Not Just Soup
In India it’s called Dahl (a brothy lentil-based soup) and in the states just simply lentil soup.  But what about the summer … lentils still have their place in salads (despite soup season being months away).  Too bad that often those dishes are not that deliciously prepared – yes I have been listening to the lamentations from my vegetarian spouse about various ready-to-eat store preparations.  So I’ve created a recipe which balances the harshness of the earthy lentil with dried fruits and a refreshing bright summer look with golden beets.

Lentil Salad

(recipe yields four portions)
2 cups lentils
1 bunch golden baby beets (4-5 pieces) other colored beets may be substituted
½ cup scallions or four stalks chopped
1 cup dried fruits such as raisins, cranberries, blueberries, apricots
1 orange
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
Sea salt, to taste
Black pepper grindings, to taste

1. Combine lentils and 5 cups of water then add 1 teaspoon of salt. On medium heat setting cook lentils until soft (20-30 minutes). If there is still water in the pot strain the lentils it off.
2. Cook beets in salted water on medium heat setting until soft (20-30 minutes). Cool beets with cold water then peel.  Cut beets into bite sized wedges.
3. In a mixing bowl combine beets, scallions, dried fruits, lentils, orange juice, olive oil, rice vinegar, salt and pepper. Use a plastic spatula to combine all ingredients.

Chef’s Tip: Do not use a metal spoon to combine the ingredients it tends to make a mush of the mixture because of the hard-edged spoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SWISS CHEESE? - the blog

The first time I ordered a hero in NYC over a decade ago the guy behind the deli counter asked me if I wanted “Swiss cheese.”  I’m thinking at this point wow this is terrific I’m traveling many thousands of miles away and I get something offered which I’m totally familiar with - Swiss cheese. To my surprise the so-called “Swiss cheese” in my sandwich had nothing to do with the cheese I grew up with except for the holes in it (very much like the stereotypical Swiss were a mouse houses in the Tom & Jerry cartoon).

(really good Emmenthaler "Swiss" cheese) 

It took me a while – actually a couple of years -- to realize that Swiss cheese had nothing to do with cheese from Switzerland.  Growing up in Austria cheese from Switzerland such as Gruyere, Emmenthaler, Appenzeler was a staple on our cheese board. Many cheeses from Switzerland are raw milk cheese meaning the milk does not get pasteurized and only gently heated in the cheese making process.  This helps to retain the excellent milk flavor of the healthy cow, which absolutely shines in the cheese.

RICOLA
When I think of Swiss cheese I think of the Ricola candy commercial where a guy plays the alp horn with a beautiful mountainous alpine panorama in the background.  I can tell you from my own experience working in Switzerland for a brief stint it’s absolutely true. The “Schwyzer Braunvieh” or Swiss brown cows roamed and grazed on herb inflected saturated grass with their sonorous bells ringing gently.

Terroir of cheese
Small production cheese making is an art and needs relatively simple equipment - I have even made some at home myself.  The quality of the grass on which the cows feed infuses the flavor of the milk and this makes or break the flavor of the cheese. Another important factor is the cheese maker who may follow tradition and local customs and allows the surrounding air do the trick and age naturally in the caves.

In our restaurant Little Cheese Pub we often have people eyeing the Swiss cheeses selections, one of which is Gourmino Emmenthaler which is the original “Swiss” cheese aged at least 6 months allowing the flavors to peak.  This Gourmino Emmenthaler has a natural nuttiness with a spicy flavor and pleasant medium texture,  easy to cut.

(a serious layer of cheese made in Switzerland in this hero) 


It really is a hero
One of the counterparts produced here in the US is Sur Choix Gruyere which is similarly aged and made from raw cow’s milk cheese in a truthful artisan way.  I have been featuring these cheeses as daily specials in a hero between layers of freshly baked poppy seed buns which add a little texture and simply lettuce and tomatoes.  With these cheeses you can hold the salt, oil, pepper and mayo because the cheese is awesome and needs no additions. 

So come to Little Cheese Pub to get a real hero with Cheese from Switzerland. 

TIS THE SEASON TO GET UNDRESSED … LIKE YOUR SALAD - the blog

It’s a fact, once the conversation starts about going to the beach, showing off the season’s newest swimwear and getting ready for summer vacations, many folks start to watch the daily fat intake. It’s evident with people frequently ordering ‘SOS’ (dishes with sauce on the side). The rest of us, or people like me, just pig out and dig into the every day fat filled foods. Either way eating a little lighter is welcome this time of year because of the heat alone!
The biggest culprit this time of year seems to be salad dressings perhaps because as we eat these delicious summer salads in the hopes of eating lighter folks realize the fat and calories are sneaking in when we ladle dressings over the greens. So we need to dress lighter and indulge in these beautiful tender greens that are hard to overlook at the local farmer’s market right now so abundant and at their peak. I wrapped my brains around this subject and came up with some tasty dressings with the beach figure in mind. And even if eating lighter is not your goal “Summer Dressing” is a perfect understated match for these perfect summer greens whose flavors need no heavy make-up.
 
(testing different kinds of fat less yogurt - Fage was my favorite) 

Summer Dressing
Fat is one of the key ingredients in dressings and I have yet to try a good fatless one yet so this fatless thing went right out the door.  Fat carries most flavor and we’re happily very accustomed to it – think of bacon for breakfast or foie gras -- so flavorful because of their fat content, which is upwards of 50%. 
I wanted to create a light dressing but without sacrificing flavor as I took apart a simple yoghurt dressing recipe from an old cookbook that was made with whole milk yoghurt. I decided to fat free yoghurt instead and added extra virgin olive oil for richness, which also boosted the flavor.  You may think “but you added the fat right back in.”  Not exactly, I replaced the milk fat with a vegetable oil which your body generally breaks down quicker.  I added fresh cucumber pieces and juice and a decent heap of fresh minced parsley to inject a fresh, cool summery feel to the dressing and I think it’s delicious.

(yogurt-cucumber dressing)

Summery Cucumber Dressing
(recipe dresses four salads)
1 cucumber
2 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons parsley, chopped fine
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cups fat free yoghurt
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
sea salt, to taste
fresh black pepper grindings

1.    Peel cucumber then cut in half . With a kitchen spoon scrape seeds out of cucumber middle. Put cucumber seeds in a fine mesh sieve then press juice with back of spoon through sieve - catching juices into a bowl. Chop seeded cucumber small (approximately 1/8-inch pieces).
2.    Peel garlic then chop roughly. Combine chopped garlic and olive oil in a small pot then cook on low heat setting for 3-4 minutes or until garlic is cooked throughout.
3.    Rinse parsley with water then chop fine (discard thick parsley stems if they’re too rough for you).
4.    With a kitchen spoon combine cucumber juice with garlic/oil mixture, parsley, yoghurt,  red wine vinegar salt and pepper then add cut cucumbers.
5.    Refrigerate dressing

Chef’s Tip: add fresh chopped dill to above recipe which is a terrific flavor companion to cucumbers.

(striped bass - a big boy getting ready on the grill - a match for the yogurt sauce)

Serving Suggestions
My favorite salad for this yoghurt dressing is iceberg  cut into large wedges which stands up strong to the somewhat weighty dressing and delivers a welcoming crunch.  Serve this salad next to a charred steak or fish from the grill which doesn’t even need a sauce on its own since the yoghurt dressing is substantial and delivers flavor balance.

DOES A CARROT COME WITH MILEAGE? the blog

Local carrots are becoming larger by the week -- now baby carrot sized, bunch carrots in a week or two, and much later in the season they’ll be gigantic! Last week I was still working with not-so-local carrots in a big bag left by my restaurant’s vegetable guy. I had a head scratching moment when I read where the carrots came from -- on the very bottom of the 50 lb bag it read “product of Israel.”  The flavor -- or what was left in these elephant carrots that had been shipped ages ago from across an ocean – was like a freshly sharpened pencil. Comparing these big boys to the locally harvested little carrots dug a few hours or days ago from fertile close-by Hudson Valley soil … well they are not even relatives.  In a recent conversation with some farmers I learned that the Hudson Valley has amazing terroir because of prehistoric lava eruptions creating an ideal environment for growing root vegetables.

(carrot tops)

Have you ever traveled to Hawaii and eaten a pineapple from South America?  Or look in local grocery stores here in NY – the apple state – and you’ll often find Washington apples.  In the food world things are not always what they appear to be – carrots apparently often come from far away and I’m eager to find out why they have to travel all those miles to come to a consumer like me.   In the meantime let’s cook them.

(fresh bunch carrots)

Spiced Carrots
(recipe yields four portions)

10 bunch carrots
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/8 teaspoon turmeric powder
2 pinches of cayenne
2 bay leaf
1 teaspoon sea salt
black pepper grindings, to taste
2 tablespoons parsley, thinly sliced  

1.     Preheat the oven to 380 degrees Fahrenheit
2.     Peel carrots then cut green tops off
3.     Combine carrots and spices in a deep heat-proof dish then add 1 cup of water. Cover dish with aluminum foil tightly
4.     Cook carrots in hot oven for two hours or until carrots are soft then add parsley.

Chef’s note: serve carrots whole or cut in mouth-sized pieces

Serving Suggestions: serve the above carrots with saucy dishes such as braised beef

SUMMER VEGETABLE STEW

I’m enamored with this summer Farmer’s market. I don’t think much can compete with local fruits and vegetables at this moment. A few days ago on my visit to the market the vegetables and fruits were so beautiful and abundant. Amazing flavors and colors took over reason and my palate overtook my mind and I bought way too many greens – I got excited. I feel fortunate to live in a city with where I can pick-up fruits and vegetables a few minutes away that are terrific quality, almost daily. Even growing up in a small village in Austria it was not that easy to get so much of your food from one spot.  At the Union Square market in NY leather skin farmers, dairy workers, cheese philosophers, shepherds, micro green hobbyists, tomato fanatics and writers with pickle and pretzel passions meet and offer their goods to us city people.

(cod crusted with millet served with Summer vegetable stew)

I can’t stress the importance of a freshly dug salad!  Bibb lettuce is amazing right now and has a rose scent which I can’t explain myself, the lettuce is plump and heavy in weight with gorgeous pale green leaves and just perfect right now. Other vegetables I came across are sweet candy-like peppers which made it into a jalapeno/pepper sorbet, and the least bitter eggplants which did wonders in my mother-in-law’s favorite eggplant parmigiana.
In the restaurant we showcased a summery vegetable stew. Simple and quick cooking methods are the most ideal right now – it’s about making these vegetables palatable  not cooking them to a mush.

The following Summer vegetable stew recipe shows off the current local offerings and reminds me of Italian minestrone.

(market vegetables for the stew)
 
Summer Vegetable Stew
(recipe yields four portions)

2 zucchini, yellow, green
1 eggplant
1 red pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon tomato paste
sea salt, to taste
fresh black pepper, to taste
1 bunch/cup scallions, sliced thinly
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
1 tablespoon parsley leaves, sliced thinly

1.     rinse all vegetables with warm water then cut in mouth-sized pieces, discard pepper seeds
2.     in a pot (1-gallon sized) heat olive oil on medium heat setting then add cut vegetables, tomato paste salt and pepper – cook for 20 minutes stirring with a wooden spoon every once in a while
3.     add herbs to vegetable mixture continue to cook five more minutes then add 4 cups water – bring mixture to boil then steep on low heat setting for 20 minutes.

Chef’s Tip: add rosemary for extra fragrance and/or lovage an herb known for it’s intense parsley like flavor 

The day after
I loved this soup when I had leftovers the next day after it was chilled in the refrigerator. I did not even heat it up – just enjoyed it chilled which made the vegetables in the soup more intense.

 

A RECIPE FOR BOILED EGGS - SERIOUSLY

Recently eggs have been on my radar, possibly because my  toddler daughter’s obsession with them, especially hard-boiled eggs for breakfast. Of course she makes a big mess  of the egg breakfast holding it in her tiny hands but she is happy and gets good nutrition at the start of the day. My spouse and I jumped on the bandwagon – it’s delicious and seems easy enough to do at home early in the morning.  So it seems one of us is always carrying a boiled egg around.  The other day a few questions came up on how to boil an egg perfectly since I commented to my spouse about the dark green shaded ring around the egg yolk, which indicates to me that the egg was cooked too long.  Another issue is that eggs often brake during the cooking process simply because they bump into each other and roughly hit the wall of the cooking vessel once the water boils violently, even when you delicately lower them into the pot on a tablespoon. Not that Arabella cares about broken or overcooked eggs but I owe it to my daughter as a professional chef  to make her the perfect boiled egg.

I took over the egg cooking process in our house - for now at least.   So we started experimenting with cooking time, temperature fluctuations and even changing the cooking vessel to perfect the ever popular but sometimes overlooked glorious hardboiled egg.

Eggcellence
My spouse buys organic large brown eggs for us at home which is an excellent source of vitamin E. and as you probably know eggs are rich in omega-3 fatty acids. The chickens that lay our eggs are fed an all-organic and vegetarian diet.

I utilize the egg carton  in the cooking process – yes, I cook the eggs in that cardboard box actually - a large enough pot is needed to fit the boxed eggs though.  Cooking them in the carton solves the problem of egg breakage since they can’t roll around wildly anymore in the boiling water.
Note: the eggs in this recipe come out of the refrigerator – this influences the cooking time

 

My ideal recipe for a hard-boiled egg:

• bring water to boil and immerse the card-boxed egg(s) into it .  Wait until the water boils again then switch the heat setting to the lowest level on the gas burner. Then steep for 12 minutes. So that the eggs cook gently to the point of moist doneness without running into problems of having a dark green shaded ring around the egg yolk. If you prefer the egg yolk to be drier, steep the eggs three minutes longer.
• Cool eggs under running cold water for 1 minute then peel.  The shell should come off easily and
  the center of the egg will be warm which adds to the pleasure of the eating experience.
  
  (boil water)
  
  (lower egg carton with eggs into the water
  
  
  
  
  (egg peeling) 
  
  
  (deviled eggs with golden beets)
  Note: sprinkle sea salt over halved breakfast eggs

If you want to be an “eggspert” keep reading
I realized that egg cookery has many variables:
Salting the egg cooking water (1 teaspoon/4 cups water) will make the cooked eggs shell come off more easily - the protein firms up better in the egg white.
Fresh eggs are often more difficult to peel like the ones I get from the Farmer’s market. Eggs that have been in our refrigerator for 3 days are easy to peel. 
If you have a hard time peeling a boiled egg: put the already cracked egg in the center of your microwave and zap for 20 seconds - this will solve the problem.
A trick to know if an egg is cooked sufficiently:  with a slotted spoon remove a cooked egg from the cooking water then spin it on the kitchen counter - an uncooked egg will spin out of alignment versus the cooked one which stays centered because the cooked egg yolk does not move around anymore.

 

 

BOK CHOY - BINGO - the blog

(charred bok choy with croutons, fermented pickles and radishes)

I was introduced to bok choy when I created a restaurant back in the late nineties. We were three partners one of whom was Chinese and loved bok choy, the other French and myself Austrian. Of course I wanted to reflect all of our interests and likes in our menu but being committed to locally sourced ingredients bok choy didn’t seem to be an option – I thought it was an imported vegetable. I was proved wrong when I met a family from Asia on my frequent farmer’s market trips. The family operates a local farm not far away from New York City and grows the most amazing bok choy and they sell it at the farmer’s market – Bingo. I created a chicken dish which I spiced with freshly ground licorice and then pan roasted it simply. The licorice underlined the natural roasting flavor quality. The chicken was served on a local three apple puree and bok choy which was quickly sautéed.

(saute bok choy with sausage and poached egg)

Thanks Bok Choy
Over the years I came to realize when creating menus that vegetables are actually triggering the sale of a protein such as beef, chicken, lamb etc – meaning that a guest generally knows what these taste like and actually chooses by the accompaniment.  So thank you bok choy for making my dish a top seller - the chicken and bok choy combo outsold the other menu items by far. 
Bok Choy is known to me in three versions shoots, baby sized and large. Younger bok choy is tender compared to the large one which has more texture. I love the crunchiness and simplicity of cooking it -- a quick steam makes the three versions palatable but when  kissed by a skillet quickly it becomes one of my favorite refreshing vegetables in Summer time.

Sautéed Bock Choy Salad
(recipe yields four bok choy side portions)

1 large bok choy or 2 lbs baby bok choy
3 scallions
2 tablespoons sunflower seeds
1 tablespoon canola oil

Dressing
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 teaspoon agave syrup or honey may be substituted
1 teaspoon sesame oil
pinch pepper flakes

1. rinse bok choy with water then cut into 1-inch pieces
2. rinse scallions with water then cut into 1-inch pieces
3. toast sunflower seeds in a skillet on medium heat setting until browned
4. for the dressing combine rice vinegar, soy sauce, agave, sesame oil, and pepper flakes then mix with a wire whisk
5. In a large (11-inch diameter) skillet heat canola oil on high heat setting then add bok choy and cook/brown for 4-5 minutes then add dressing. Serve immediately (at this point bok choy still has a nice crunch but lost it’s rawness)

(bok choy salad with carrots, ping pong radishes and Sriracha dressing)

Note: bok choy contains a high amount of vitamin A and vitamin C 

Chef’s Tip: bok choy is terrific next to bbq pork or beef and perfect under a filet of grilled fish

MY OMA IN AUSTRIA - the blog

(my mother's Liptauer cheese spread)

As a young boy I was fortunate to have a mother who cooked traditional Austrian meals on a daily basis. It was natural for her to bring to the table what she had learned from her mother and the food and traditions on which she was raised. Needless to say all foods were locally sourced, some of it a stoneks throw from where I was raised. I remember walking to my grandmother’s farm-house quite often - it was a large estate, two stories high. My grandmother wasn’t herself into farming and agriculture she just owned the house and the surrounding land. The first floor of the farm and stable of the house was rented out to an operating farmer who raised oinking piggies, brown flecked cows, proud chickens and a whole family of dogs and cats. My oma (grandmother in Austrian) always had an abundance of edible goodies from the farm ready to be enjoyed. As I grew older I realized that this plentifulness of food from the farm was no coincidence, it was actually a part of the lease terms to have an unlimited supply of milk from the cows downstairs which was sweet as vanilla cream. The orchard supplied fragrant apples, aromatic pears, fleshy plums, soft skinned apricots and we relished a variety of tender lettuces and crunchy radishes from the farm’s garden. The agreement even included schnapps which was distilled on premises from the various gifts of the orchard - a hobby of the farmer. 

(Heurige cheese & apples  "everything from this years harvest") 


This season's wine and food
Lease agreements where certainly different back in the day compared to these days. Recently I have been involved in a few of them in my own life. I guess it triggered old memories so much that we want to revitalize some of those traditions in our restaurant. In Austria there is one word which describes a restaurant which sources its ingredients from the immediate area and often produces everything themselves in a fashion similar to a farm. It's called a “Heurige” which essentially means everything edible and drinkable comes from the most recent harvest such as wines, beers summer sausages, cured hams, pickled vegetable. I remember eating saibling which is from the rainbow trout family, and smoked carp looking over the picturesque Danube river in one of those Heurigen on our most recent visit to Vienna. It was accompanied by a green and zingy, fresh Grüner Veltliner wine (an Austrian grape) from the most recent harvest which was a perfect match.
The following recipe is my mother’s it did not need any revisions and will go right on the menu.

(house-pickled market fresh vegetables - perfect for snacking in the wine tavern) 

Liptauer Cheese Spread
(enough cheese dip for a party of four person)

4 ounces butter    
4 ounces farmers cheese    
4 ounces cream cheese  
1 glove garlic
1 shallot
1 large pickle
1 tablespoon capers,
1 tablespoon flat leaf parsley
1 teaspoons sea salt such as Baline
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons Hungarian-style paprika powder

1. Soften butter at room temperature (let butter sit for 15 minutes at room temperature).
2. In a electric kitchen blender whip butter (4-5 minutes) with paddle attachment then add topfen, cream cheese and cooked garlic continue to whip mixture (4-5 minutes).
3. Peel and cut shallot, garlic (1/8-inch dice), dice pickles (1/8-inch dice), chop capers finely and cut parley (1/8-inch wide). Bring a pot filled with water (2 cups)  to boil then cook onions and pickles for one minute then poor into a strainer and let cool.
4. Combine spices, cooked/cooled vegetables and parsley with butter mixture and mix to combine (1-2 minutes)

Chef’s note: the farmer’s cheese used in this recipe is called topfen - I get it from the farmer’s market. In Austria a cheese dip is eaten with thin slices of dark fragrant  rye bread.

 

 

PEAS IN A POD

This time of year evenings are still cool and the day temperatures are quite high already. This seems to be a good climate for peas since they have a natural sweetness unlike any other vegetable - the mild candy quality of the peas makes me think I should create a dessert with them where very little added sugar is needed. Yes, I’m enamored with peas - so much that I chose it as a part of the cookbook title I have been working on …Sugar From Peas. 

(peas in a pod)

On the menu
At my guests' request each spring season our chilled pea soup makes a comeback in my restaurant. I remember a dish which I loved as a young cook when I was a culinary trainee in Italy. We had to prepare risi pisi which is peas and rice with some cubed carrots in the mix for color - it was simple and delicious because of the excellent green peas. I feature something similar on my current menu which I combine with luscious bbq Berkshire pork belly, and it’s a real treat, just a terrific combination of flavors. 

(peas & carrot salad)

Peas & Co
Unlike the rounded pods of garden or English peas, the pods of snow peas are flat. When selecting them choose smaller pods as they tend to be sweeter. The peas I have from the Farmer’s market this week Iare so crunchy, sweet and satisfying I don’t even cook them as their flavor and texture are such a nice component in salads. I simply cut them in mouth-sized pieces and toss them with sliced radishes - another of the moment's vegetables. Last week we combined peas with chopped asparagus and green celery and I'm already looking forward to tomatoes and corn in a few weeks which will make terrific companions for peas. I suggest staying raw with these vegetables - simply chop’n dress and stay cool in the heat wave. 

(peas & radish salad)
 
Snap Peas & Radish Salad
(recipe yields four appetizer portions)
 
Lime & Honey Dressing
1 lime
1 teaspoon sea salt such as Baline
1 teaspoon honey such as clover honey
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 pinches cayenne
5 gratings black pepper corn
 
1. Cut lime in half then juice into a small bowl.
2. Combine lime juice with salt, honey, vinegar, cayenne and pepper then mix with a wire whisk.
3. Poor olive oil slowly into lime/honey mixture constantly mixing with the whisk.

Snap Pea Salad
Sea salt (to taste)
4 cups sugar snap peas 
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley 
4 radishes (1/2-diameter) such as red garden radish

1. Cut off ends from snap peas then cut in ½-inch long pieces
2. Cut radishes with a vegetable slicer such as a mandolin (1/8-inch thick slices) or a knife.
3. In a bowl toss snap peas with radish slices and parsley then serve.
 
(a mountain of peas)
(peas and funny name radishes)

Chef’s Note:
I read up on the nutrient value of peas it turns out they are a good source of vitamin K, C, A and B, they support blood sugar regulation and are beneficial in preventing stomach cancer since peas are a good source of antioxidants!  

 

PICNIC

We live close-by an amazing green walk-way which is located on and old railroad track two stories above street level it’s called the Highline – this week is the highly anticipated opening of the second renovated section  of it with the main entrance on 23rd street.  If you visit New York City I recommend you take a stroll along the beautifully designed pathway during your stay. If you live in Manhattan and you haven’t been yet – it’s a must check-out. It gives a voyeuristic glimpse into the surrounding scenery -- buildings, human pedestrian traffic, and backyards -- all interesting to look at. The other day we had friends visiting from out of town and were showing off our new pathway-park – they enjoyed it very much.

(Farmstead cheddar from England, 5-spoke Creamery cheddar from Pennsylvania, Emmentahler from Switzerland)

En plein air snacking
We realized it’d be nice to nibble on something during chatting, sitting on the funky benches and absorbing the bustling walk-way – a picnic came to mind.
Our new restaurant Little Cheese Pub happens to be a stone’s throw from the Highline so I phoned in an order of a cheese plate and my favorite large pretzel with cheese dip, and a few more dips next to house-pickled vegetables. Within 20 minutes we were happy to see Roberto our delivery man with the goodies. It was delicious and straight forward -- we ate with our hands, no bother with cutlery, and enjoyed little wedges of cheese and loaded up on house-baked poppy seed crisps with green olive hummus and dipped the giant pretzel in the piquant cheese dip seasoned with Hungarian paprika and minced pickles. Al fresco snacking on a beautiful sunny day certainly has its appeal. Really not much can compete which is why everything tastes so good on vacations! The following cheese dip is fairly simple to make and I suggest bringing this potluck along to your next picnic party. It will be much appreciated.

(green olive hummus with poppy seed crisps)

Cheese Dip
(enough for a snack for four people – accompanied by crackers, bread crisps or pretzels)

8 ounces cream cheese  
¼-tablespoon roasted garlic puree
1 shallot, diced
¼-cups pickles, chopped
¼-cup capers, chopped
1 tablespoon flat leaf parsley, chopped
Kosher-style salt, to taste
2 pinches cayenne
1 tablespoon Hungarian-style paprika powder

1. In a mixing bowl combine all ingredients and mix with a wire whisk.

A few picnic tips:
- I recommend firm cheese for picnics which can withstand hotter temperatures (parmesan, cheddar chunks, pecorino, etc.)
- nuts, olives or such finger foods are ideal and easy to maneuver on a blanket
- utensils are not worth bringing so look out for pre-portioned edibles (grapes, sandwiches, mouth sized pieces of fruits etc.)
- some controlled outdoor places let you bring wine and beer if that is the case I recommend screw caps on bottles (I forgot several times either corkscrew or bottle opener
– which is a bummer at the moment)
- whipped cream, chocolates – keep’em for the romantic picnic in the cooler evenings - who needs the melting mess during the hot day

(my little family having a picnic) 

Picnics are a terrific way to connect again: We planned my mother-in-law’s birthday around a walk along the Highline with a picnic snack and I’m planning about a quiet, romantic Sunday evening with my spouse – I’ll arrange a babysitter for Arabella our daughter and perhaps bring strawberries and cream.

 

I FEEL ALIVE - the blog

I’ve been developing recipes for a restaurant group with a focus on healthy ingredients, mainly vegetables, grains and fruits and some proteins. All they want is simply prepared dishes from the local vegetable garden. Testing recipes on a daily basis and eating this kind of food made me realize once again how powerful such a diet can be in terms of energy and mental alertness. I feel charged like I’ve had several coffees. Granted a normal person’s diet does not have all these local goodies available like I do right now during recipe testing but their goal is to make healthy & deliciously prepared foods accessible.

(edamame with slivered almonds and shredded carrots) 

Spring socializing
No doubt Spring time puts pressure on one’s social schedule -- Mother’s day, Easter, bridal showers, weddings, cocktail parties and the list goes on. People are out and about all day and in the evenings chatter in sidewalk cafes sipping wine or coffee. It’s nice to sit outside and be part of the Spring party.

When I think of my Sunday family meals (that is when I cook at home) I want to prepare crisp greens, crunchy radishes, fresh peas, peppery arugula. The socializing with friends and family allows less time to spend behind the stove and I certainly don’t think of braising that hunk of meat like I did a few months ago when temperature was close to zero. Right now my aim is to put springy, nutritious food on the table at home, and since now people are peeling off their layers, thinking about bathing suits and next week is Memorial Day it’s the time to get started with a leaner diet.

So with that in mind it’s time for salads!

(chopped bok choy with French breakfast radish)

Quick-fix Salads
(recipe yields two entree sized portions)

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard

Sea salt, to taste

Black pepper, to taste

(shaved red cabbage with chive blossom and Italian parsley)

Vegetable Options - use as many different vegetables that you’d like for your salad

2 grated carrots – rinsed no need to peel before grating

4 cups shredded red cabbage – equals about 1/4 of a 6-inch diameter red cabbage

4 cups sliced red cabbage - equals 14 ounces whole radish

4 cups soy beans – I use the frozen, shelled ones

1 bok choy – one large piece cut in 1/8-inch thick slices

(salad accessories plenty of nuts) 

Salad Accessories – add as you like
½ cup toasted nuts such as almonds, sunflower seeds

2 tablespoons mint leaves

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

2 sliced scallions

Slices of cheese - I recommend 3 ounces per serving of brie or camembert

(some cheese for that salad please) 

I love the versatility and quickness of salads with endless variations and the physicality of the preparation is fun too  – shredding, chopping, grating – it’ll make you nice and hungry!

 

 

 

 

SPRING COLORS AT THE MARKET - the blog

Ever wondered what the big deal is at your local farmer’s market and why many chef's flock there. Cooking in the farm-to-table approach and serving freshly plucked salads, radishes, carrots and such makes all the difference in taste. Saying hello to the people – the farmers who are the bearer of nature’s gifts -- makes it enjoyable to connect with our peers who have a similar appreciation. Inspiration is certainly a big part why I’m drawn to the market throughout the year either at ice cold or boiling temperatures.

(radishes in abundance) 


(lilacs, green asparagus at the farmer's market) 

Rolling out the green carpet
The season’s bounty is steadily springing up like  a glorious vegetable garden. Just a few days ago the our local farmer's market seemed have rolled out the green carpet - radishes are bright pink, saturated green leafy salads are plentiful, broccoli rabe is still rather small but delicious, arugula is spicy-peppery and tender. It's mesmerizing when your nostrils get tickled by the scent of fragrant herbs in the morning hours at the market. What caught my attention in particular was green asparagus standing up strong next to blooming lilacs, the green and purple tones side-by-side truly announced spring. The sun was still low in the wee hours and the tips of the asparagus appeared to be purple in the shade of the lilacs. Visually it seemed to be a perfect match and I felt an urge to put them both together into a plated dish - which worked wonderfully. The strong floral aroma of the lilacs holds up nicely when paired with the vegetative natural bitterness of asparagus. The next farmer had flowering nasturtium placed beside a lamb rug and a hunk of lamb meat – probably by coincidence but for me another inspiration.  This visual pair inspired a slow roasted lamb shoulder paired with nasturtium cress petals which added a terrific herbal spice and a bright sharpness to the rich cut of meat.

Inspiration...

tasting it...

moving along...

voila 





Asparagus Vinaigrette

(recipe yields four portions)

1 pound jumbo green asparagus

1/4 cup vinegar (raspberry, sherry)

1 teaspoon smooth Dijon-style mustard

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt, to taste

Black pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon lilac petals

salad greens optional 

1. Peel asparagus then cut off 2-inches from bottom.
2. Fill a pot (1-gallon) sized with water then add salt. Cook asparagus 2-3 minutes then transfer to an ice water bath. Once cool transfer cooked asparagus onto a kitchen paper lined plate (this will absorb excess water).
3. In a mixing bowl combine vinegar, mustard, salt, pepper with a wire whisk then add oil slowly (in this way an emulsion will be formed).
4. Place cooked asparagus on plates and spoon oil/vinegar mixture over it.
5. Sprinkle asparagus with lilac petals.
6. 

Chef’s asparagus buying tips: Look for closed, compact tips; smooth, round spears; and a fresh appearance. A rich green color should cover most of the spear. Stalks should be almost as far down as the green extends.

 

 

 

I'M ESCAPING NYC - the blog

When the city gets stuffy with hot days I escape Manhattan for the weekend. I don’t mind traveling for two hours to our family’s cottage even after our restaurant’s dinner service rush so I can wake-up on Sunday in the picturesque weekend house. It’s quiet there, far away from the city, and a refreshing breeze from the ocean makes the air seem crisp and vital - a true retreat.

(simple salad - Brie, chamomile, Spring carrots) 

Food Recycling 
Having a little toddler and being away from our city home without a baby sitter is sometimes challenging. We occasionally visit local restaurants as early as possible since Arabella has to go to bed. It’s not much fun for the surrounding customers since our kiddo likes to paint with food and sing her favorite “songs” rather loudly. We find it less of an event and more relaxing to have food delivered to the house lately. But sometimes we’re in the mood for cooking so we get a bountiful food basket stuffed with produce when the farmer’s market starts to bloom with food from local farms, freshly baked bread from the nearby bakery, fish from the close-by monger and meats from a family operated butcher store. All that makes my chef’s mind happy but on the other hand I want to keep cooking simply which makes it a lot easier on me so I don’t have to stand behind the stove like the rest of the week as a professional chef. So I have started “recycling” from the night before’s takeout leftovers.  When I opened the refrigerator Sunday morning -- hungry from my 1:30 a.m arrival -- I found Chinese food containers.  Naturally this all had to go before our departure that Sunday evening when it’s time to head back into the city. Sifting through the containers I found brown rice and a mix of broccoli and mushrooms.  Earlier that day my mother in law got exited about gorgeous organic hen eggs at the farmer’s market. She bought a small palette of 30 eggs! 

(Farmers Market eggs)

(organic poached eggs over brown rice) 

Early Bird Breakfast 
Inevitably my breakfast looked like this - poached eggs served over brown rice with a touch of soy sauce and vinegar. Arabella likes to wake us up around 7:00 am  since she is hungry so the clean and satisfying flavors of the dish that early in the morning was delicious and reminded me of the simplicity that Japanese cuisine often provides – the perfect early bird breakfast.

But still leftovers and eggs remained …

(Hampton frittata)

Hampton Fusion Brunch
Later that day we invited friends for brunch to the cottage. We served the “recycled” broccoli and button mushrooms from the night before in the disguised form of a frittata accompanied by a sauce of yoghurt and a half eaten avocado which I mixed together. It became a bright green and tart tasting guacamole which worked nicely with the frittata. I found a can of black beans in the kitchen cupboard -who knows how long it was there - I simmered them and added hot sauce which was an ideal match for the frittata. Everybody loved it and praised the chef. Later on I explained how the brunch dishes came about. Everybody laughed and made fun about the combination of the Italian style frittata, Mexican style beans and guacamole addition - the meal was christened Hampton fusion.

 

FASHIONABLE RECIPES - THE BLOG

I’m often asked by my guests how I come up with recipes and how to develop a unique recipe that works.  Generally they are curious about flavor combinations and ingredients.

(asparagus stemms and house-made hroseradish mustard)

Fashionable Recipes
To me creating recipes is a combination of my experience, what has worked in the past, and what excites me at the moment. Recipes are like a seasonal fashion trend much like a garment.

Recipes of the moment
I develop recipes all the time and the process is a lot of trial and error before it actually makes it in front of a paying customer. It all starts out on a sheet of paper - a worksheet - where I write down the basic ingredient that is seasonal, most of the time, or whatever inspires me at that time (in Winter it’s not so seasonal but intriguing). Next I search for a suitable herb and/or spice, which bring the ingredient or recipe to life. Eventually I find an appropriate preparation technique such as pickling, braising, steaming etc.  These 3 steps are the core of my recipe. Then the actual cooking starts and the recipe elements get switched out constantly until they fit all needs such as density, appearance, texture, flavor, and so forth. Some of my recipes get revised several times throughout the year or they get totally dismissed – like a garment – just to stay fashionable in terms of flavor. 

(How do you know ingredients work together? Mache and wild arugula salad with with sauteed chantarelle mushrooms, radishes and potato dressing) 

Recipe developing tips:
- stay local; use Farmer’s market vegetables and fruits for freshness, buy artisanal type of products, pay attention to the sustainable seafood list
- look-out for seasonal ingredients in this way you can use them at the peak of their flavor.  
- ask the chef at your next restaurant visit – I love to discuss food with my guests
- think – do you have any food memories, try to capture that memory which will give your recipe a foundation and will be helpful to your recipe success. Most of my recipes have some sort of  memory or nostalgia
- Taste the food during your recipe developing process it will guide you along the way.  

Use the following guidelines:
- flavors need balance think of sweet & sour, acidic & bitt
- texture needs diversity soft & crunchy, crispy & creamy
- temperature hot & cold
- spice needs to be compatible salty & sweet

My Recipe Worksheet
I love peas, especially their texture and the way they capture the spring season, and they’re plentiful available when the days get warmer. Here is my spring pea soup recipe in worksheet format:

Basic ingredient: Peas

Herb: Mint – mint evokes freshness which is perfect for spring time

Seasoning: 
garlic – because it adds a vegetal sweetnes
salt - I choose sea salt for a slight brininess
cayenne - to add a spicy tingle on the sides of your tongue

Texture: Water without it would be a puree

Cheese – it adds richness and creamy texture

(pea soup - a recipe for success) 

Chilled Green Pea Soup
(recipe yields four portions)

2 cloves garlic
5 cups greens peas (frozen peas may be substituted)
4 cups water
1 tablespoon mint leaves
sea salt to taste
2 pinch cayenne 

1.  Peel then slice garlic gloves thinly.

2.  In a pot (1-gallon sized) bring salted water to boil then cook peas and sliced garlic cloves for                 45 seconds. With a slotted spoon transfer peas into an ice bath (this will stop the cooking                 process and retain a bright green color).

3.  In a kitchen blender combine peas, garlic, mint and water then puree until mixture is smooth,                 season with salt and cayenne
4.              Strain pureed pea mixture through a fine mesh sieve.

Chef’s Tip: Add richness by shaving cheese such as Manchego onto the soup before serving

 

 

THE WORD OF MOUSE

I’ve had several discussions over the last couple of months with other restaurateurs about marketing and social media in the hospitality field. The discussion centered on whether it is important for restaurants to interact with guests via social media beyond their experience in the dining room. For us it has been its fun to interact and stay connected with our guests and friends through Facebook, posting recipes on my blog and by tweeting about exciting updates so that our followers know what’s going on in the kitchen and beyond. We’re “Facebooking” restaurant status updates and perhaps at the same time bother our old elementary school mates we haven’t seen in ages. I frequently connect on LinkedIn with peers and other industry professionals to get a handle on what’s happening in their lives. Indeed all that is fun although it extends my already long restaurant day even more and spending quality time with my loved ones gets more and more challenging.

(pretty pictures help to get "Likes" on Facebook - Buckwheat greens with Spring carrots and fresh ricotta)


Marketing versus connecting
Not too long ago in the restaurant business if we wanted our guests’ attention we contacted a pr agency and tried to get the word out using their relations to the press – with not much measurable result.  Today marketing is a click away with a computer mouse or a hand held communication device in the restaurant which can increase business or at the least generate energy with comments or a simple “Like” or thumps-up (Facebook) – which is certainly more instantaneous and personal than traditional marketing in my opinion. 

(schnitzel pounding and using a phone should be two different tasks)
 

What Schnitzel and an I-phone have in common
Of course there are hazards when you try to go virtual in a commercial kitchen. The other day by pounding schnitzel and tweeting I accidentally pounded my handsome looking I-phone with the schnitzel hammer which was lying next to the cutting board. I concluded that schnitzel pounding and tweeting should be two different tasks.

(good for tweeting the right now dish - Tumbleweed cheddar dusted with fresh-dried morel mushrooms with the first local radish and the first tender mustard greens of the season) 

Opa knows how to get people to look at his site
My father (a/k/a Opa which is German for Grandpa) has been making me feel grandfatherly when it comes to YouTube since I’m not currently set up on it. He’s had lots of fun and about 6 million impressions already with his art related YouTube account! Hey Opa how do you post a video again? All that traffic that he gets on his site makes me jealous.

If you’re curious check it out – http://www.youtube.com/user/Art4you1943. 

In a Nutshell
I feel like I’m living in a daily cocktail party with this social media thing looming above my head constantly. It certainly creates terrific opportunities to make new friends and tie future relationships. Maybe the best of all is that it can be done from just about anywhere - even when you’re in pajamas on your couch. For my part I use social media most often when I come across exciting things food related. Reaching out in this way makes me feel socially connected to others.

(A typical seasonal daily Facebook post - carrot-pea green salad with sugar snap dressing) 

 

I'M IN A SCHNITZEL FEVER

(golden pan-fried schnitzel) 

In Austria where I grew up schnitzel is called “Wiener schnitzel” (meaning Viennese schnitzel) and it has to be made from veal by law. Schnitzel meat is sliced from the leg which is called Fricandeau.  It is sliced thinly then flattened gently with a mallet and then it gets dipped in flour, mixed egg and finely ground bread crumbs. Then it is cooked in a skillet filed with oil - only a finger deep –and pan-fried.  There is a significant difference between deep frying and fan frying – when properly pan fried, the schnitzel will cook to a golden, air puffed perfection.  By carefully and continuously shaking the oil-swimming schnitzel in the skillet over heat the actual veal meat develops steam and puffs-up the bread crust creating a type of souffleing-effect.

(cucumber salad)

Schnitzel Things
Traditionally, the Austrian schnitzel gets garnished with a wedge of lemon and some curly parsley. Each country seems to have their own specialized way of doing schnitzel things (accessories, accompaniments, accoutrements) with different garnishes such as tomato sauce, gravy, melting cheese (chicken parmigano anybody?), anchovy fillets, sunny-side eggs atop and on and on. My Japanese friend eats his tonkatsu (thick pork cutlet, bread crumbed) with lot of soy sauce.  I’m amazed and amused by guests’ insistence “this is how schnitzel must be served” if he or she had it in one region of Austria or another, or Bavaria or Switzerland or in Upstate NY.  If he had it with cucumber salad then memory demands that same garnish to call it “authentic.”  My staff always says “it’s called Wiener schnitzel, it’s from Vienna” with a smile (I hope)!

(red cabbage salad) 

Childhood Proportions
When I was little my mother mastered pork schnitzel for us kids. I remember it covered the whole plate and it seemed gigantic. I’m sure you can relate to some degree -- normal things like a stair case, an adult dinner fork are totally gigantic to kids.  And the giant schnitzel is even giant to an adult so you can imagine my child eyes staring at this oversized delicious thing on my plate.  I want to capture these impressions so we put a JUMBO schnitzel on our current Spring menu at Klee.

(carrot salad) 

Jumbo Schnitzel
(recipe for two extra large schnitzel)
2 slices pork loin (each 7-ounces)
3 large eggs
salt
fresh black pepper
2 cups flour
2 cups bread crumbs (ground finely)
2 cups vegetable oil such as canola or grape seed oil
2 tablespoons butter
3 wedges lemon

1. Butterfly-cut pork loin slices.
2. Line a flat surface such as a kitchen counter with plastic seran wrap (12x12-inch square) then put butterflyed pork on it and cover with a second layer of plastic  wrap. Gently flatten pork with a mallet (thickness of meat is ideal at maximum 1/8-inch thick after flattening and in 10-inch diameter). Flatten second pork slice.
3. Line three shallow plates next to each other one with flour, second with mixed eggs and third with bread crumbs.
4. Season pork with salt and pepper. Tip seasoned pork into flour then egg and bread crumbs (shake off flour then dip into egg and lastly tip into bread crumbs). Do  not press coating onto schnitzel.
5. In a shallow skillet (12-inch or so in diameter) heat half of vegetable oil on medium heat setting then add breaded pork slice (oil should be sizzling at this point).
6. Cook pork on one side then add half of the butter and turn with kitchen tongues to cook other side (cook schnitzel 3 minutes or so until crust has a golden color –  move skillet carefully back and forth – in this way the hot oil swaps over schnitzel  surface then turn and cook for 2 minutes more).
7. Squeeze some of the lemon over schnitzel then transfer to paper lined plate to absorb excess fat.  Pan-fry second piece of pork.

(schnitzel with three salads)

Chef’s plating suggestions: thinly sliced cucumber seasoned with salt and pepper marinated with vinegar and oil make a refreshing companion to schnitzel. Thinly sliced red cabbage tossed with mustard vinaigrette add terrific textural contrast and color.

 

THAT OLD BREAD

What to you do with that old bread which has been on the counter for a day already?  Prepare it like our ancestors have been doing it for the last few hundred years. A recipe brought over from Europe by settlers a long time ago … French toast! It is amazing what a treat that old loaf of bread can be again.

(fun, past Sunday at home French Toast competition, my spouse Lori plating her French toast)

 
(Sunday home French Toast competition my spouses (l) and mine (r) they were both delicious) 

The Lost Bread of Europe
The French and Dutch call it ‘pain perdu’ which translates to “lost bread” because the recipe uses that stale bread which would otherwise be thrown out.

In Austria my mother cooked “Pofesen” for dinner which is a plum jelly (“Powidl”) sandwich dipped in a sweet milk and egg mixture.

During my travels through Germany I ate their version which is called “Arme Ritter” or “poor night” in English. The name is believed to originate from medieval times when knights were poor and stuffed their bellies with sweetened skillet roasted bread over open fire.

In Spain their version of French toast is “torrijas” which are often prepared during Lent. It is sweetened with honey and spiced with a touch of cinnamon and is eat it for breakfast frequently.

In Jewish-American households it is the tradition to use leftover challah bread from Friday’s Shabbat dinner to make Challah French toast on Sunday morning.

In Italy “Mozarella in Carrozza” is a savory version where mozzarella cheese is wedged between two slices of bread and then dipped into salted egg mixture.

Easter Sunday French toast recipe
After much trial and error I serve this crisp French toast recipe on Klee’s brunch menu (our restaurant).  Soggy French toast is such a disappointment so I made it my mission to create a toast that retained its crisp character.  Pressing rolled oatmeal flakes on the outside of French toast is delicious too and enhances the crispy bite. I hope you enjoy.

Corn Flake Crusted French Toast
(recipe yields four portions)

1 cup milk

3 eggs

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

pinch salt

8 slices brioche bread (3/4-inch thick) day-old, stale white bread or challah bread may be  substituted

2 cups corn flakes (crushed to small pieces by hand)

3-4 tablespoons butter

1. In a bowl combine milk, eggs, honey, vanilla and salt then whisk with wire whisk to combine.
   
   
2. Dip bread slices into milk mixture (do not let the bread soak-up the liquid –  this way the bread won’t break apart). Then press gently into crushed corn flakes on both sides.
   
3. In a skillet melt butter on medium heat setting then cook until golden-brown in color (2-3 minutes). With a spatula turn French toast and cook other side until golden-brown (2-4 minutes).
   
4. Transfer French toast onto a cookie-sheet pan and reheat in 350 degree Fahrenheit hot oven.   Prepare remaining toasts.
   
5. Sprinkle French toast with powdered sugar before serving.

Chef’s Tip: for a “grown up” version of the French Toast recipe add two tablespoons of rum to the recipe. Serve with maple syrup and fresh sliced fruits such as bananas, strawberries or your favorite fruit. 

(Easter Sunday French Toast)

 

A CUP OF JOE

I love myself a cup of joe on a daily basis. The aroma of coffee makes me gravitate to the coffee machine.  I bet you can relate to it, whether you drink it or not, the smell of coffee can be mesmerizing. I equate that delicious aroma with getting my afternoon fix when my mind starts to wander and I need a little boost to put my mind back on track, and for many others it’s the wake-up ritual every morning. Personally I limit myself to one cup a day during the week since I don’t want to get hooked on caffeine.  But Sunday I make an exception and I give in to more warming deliciousness throughout the day. We even make it a destination of sorts before doing family things. I’m certainly not talking about the Starbucks or Dunkin Donuts on every other corner. The places I’m talking about sometimes have lines out the door, astoundingly, and at times a stretched wait. I guess I’m not the only one who appreciates a really good cup of coffee. 

(cup of Joe)

Some of the places I like to visit in NY are Stumptown coffee roasters in the Ace hotel, Café Grumpy on 20th street and Ninth Street coffee roasters in the Chelsea Market (which use Stumptown coffee).

Golden Elixir
We know that coffee has different flavor nuances and can be described as earthy, fresh, nutty, citrusy, chocolatey, spicey, floral on so on. Beyond these flavors, in a while I experience that moment of coffee perfection which to me is like golden elixir and it is mesmerizing and memorable.  Then this coffee thing -- cultish coffee followers, brewers with attitudes, people who sit with a cup at the upper right hand corner of their desk or table all the time,  and this whole purist craze – it all starts to make sense. In an ideal espresso the aroma, body and richness is in balance with a perfect crema floating on top which is that distinctive heavenly foam on top of espresso which appears to be a layer of cream but no cream has touched this perfect espresso.

Making Coffee.
At home we make coffee in a Mocca brewer/percolator and a French press which is very simple and it does a fine job. We’re not set up at home for espresso making so I’m going to explain a few basic steps what we do in the restaurant all that you can apply at home to make a good shoot. First we make sure the spout of the espresso/coffee machine is clean (wiped with a cloth and/or flushed with clear water). For the coffee itself I recommend buying coffee packed in individual coffee package portions since coffee beans or ground coffee exposed to air degrades rather quickly. In my experience within a week or so natural coffee bean oils become stale and hence subtle aroma nuances are lost. I have two employees destined in the restaurant to check on supply and demand in this way we never overbuy coffee products since freshness is one of the main factors of a good cup of joe. My guy’s in the restaurant certainly make a good cup of coffee I think they have passion and pride and the knowhow how to handle/clean the coffee/espresso machine. Of course good quality coffee beans and a careful bean roast is a must.

Coffee Cuisine
I incorporate coffee into several recipes to raise certain flavor profiles some examples are:

Vanilla cream gets a sprinkle of espresso in the mixture which rounds out the vanilla flavor.

A beef burger made with all natural Brandt Beef from a Farm in California gets a small amount of ground coffee which enhances the natural flavor of the beef even more. 

Chocolate brownies benefit from a shoot of espresso in the recipe which form a perfect flavor symposium between coffee and chocolate.

 

FOOD OF THE MOMENT - SPRING VEGETABLES

Messenger of Spring
April marks significant changes for us cooks. Green snap peas, crunchy snow peas, tender pea shoots, colorful baby zucchini, tiny pink radishes and pungent Spring onions are followed by earthy morel mushrooms. Local spring vegetables are moving in slowly - I know most of us are ready for a change from root vegetables and heavy menu items. But we have to be a little more patient since they still have a few weeks left before the true locals are arriving such as ramps, fiddlehead ferns, nettles and purslane which are the actual messengers of Spring here in New York. I can’t help it. I feel like a stalk stalker when I hunt after the first slender asparagus stems at the Greenmarket.

(charred spring onions, grilled yellow zucchini, crunchy radish slices with bbq chicken wings) 

Following is a salad recipe for crunchy peas and radishes.
Green Snap Peas and Pink Radish Salad
(recipe yields four appetizer portions)
 
Snap Pea Salad
Sea salt (to taste)
4 cups sugar snap peas 
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley 
4 pink radishes
4 cups pea shoots or green pea leafs

1. Trim sugar snap peas (with a small knife cut off ends and pull string from top to bottom of snap peas – discard string – this will remove tough string part from snap pea shell).
2. Prepare a bowl filled with cold water and ice. In a pot (2-quart sized) bring salted water to boil then cook trimmed peas (20 seconds) and transfer with a slotted spoon to the ice water bath (this will stop cooking process and retain bright green  color and a crunchy texture).
3. Cut radishes with a vegetable slicer such as a mandolin (1/8-inch thick slices) or a knife.
4. Clean pea shoots in a bowl filled with cool water then dry on kitchen paper towel or in a salad spinner.

Lime & Honey Dressing
1 lime
1 teaspoon sea salt such as Baline
1 teaspoon honey, such as clover
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 pinches cayenne
5 gratings black peppercorn
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1. Cut lime in half then juice into a small bowl.
2. Combine lime juice with salt, honey, vinegar, cayenne and pepper then mix with a wire whisk.
3. Poor olive oil slowly into lime/honey mixture constantly mixing with the whisk.
4. In a bowl toss cooked snap peas, radish slices, pea shoots and parsley with some of the dressing, then serve.

Get some green in your food
Following are a few suggestions to get your creative juices flowing and bring some vitamins in your life.  Add these to some of your favorite recipes…

 
- Baby spinach tossed with spice steamed cauliflower

- Steamed snow or snap peas tossed with a puree of carrots and a squeeze of lemon juice

- Asparagus give its crunch to pasta tossed with Mangalitsa pork sausage

- Pea shoots and grilled yellow zucchini are an ideal bed for local fish dotted with caramelized spring onions

- Young Scallions simply charred make a terrific match with grilled steak

 

THE PERFECT FRENCH OMELET

Lessons in omelet cooking  
One of the exams in cooking school in my upbringing as a chef was to cook an omelet. Our teachers taught us classic French techniques which meant in one hand you had an iron skillet (no non-stick pans at this time yet) and in the other a metal spatula with sharp edges.
First we had to melt the butter then we combined eggs and little water in a bowl and mixed them vigorously to get as much air as possible into the mixture (when water is placed in the egg it creates steam and hence makes the finished omelet airy). We were taught to cook the egg mixture at a low to medium heat setting in melted butter. The egg starts to cook on the bottom and eventually it’s flipped onto a plate. It was perfect when it had the appearance of a pale-yellow cylinder. Unless you had practiced omelet cooking before in this way there was no change of success of mastering this – at least not for me. My omelet “piece de resistance” had more of a broken tube shape or it resembled a crepe meaning it was cooked to a point when it had browned too early and didn’t melt together in the middle since it was in the skillet too long  – no good grades on this one.
 
(egg in cast iron pan on cooked on a French top) 

("oui chef" French omelet mastered with a pretzel roll and baby spinach) 

Chef’s Note: We were taught to season an omelet after it cooked, with salt and pepper. Apparently the cooked egg structure is softer in this way.

Skillet Skills 
Cooking a perfect omelet was really difficult and I always wondered why it had to be the standard for us young cooks.  Now it occurs to me that eggs are a low cost food item we had access to the product and could practice skillet and spatula skills at home. That’s probably one reason the omelet evolved as the culinary school standard. 

Contemporary Brunch Omelet
Presently in the restaurant we cook omelets for our brunch service in a quicker and rustic version and we certainly get enough practice cooking them. First we mix eggs, salt and pepper so that you still can see egg white traces in the mixture which helps to make a pillowy omelet texture (no water needed like we’re taught in cooking class). Our omelets are partially cooked in a hot oven so pre-heat your oven before you start cooking your omelet.
Heat butter in a non stick-pan then add egg mixture and cook on a high heat setting.  With a heat proof spatula follow the outside edges of the egg mixture close to the skillet and move it to the middle of the skillet once the middle looks half-way cooked  (it will look somewhat like a moist scrambled egg), then transfer into the hot oven. In the restaurant we cook omelets in a Wood Stone oven at a temperature range from 500 – 650 degrees Fahrenheit.


plastic spatula and non-stick pan

eggs with traces of egg white visible 

melting butter

move eggs in skillet around 

move eggs with spatula from outside to middle of skillet 

bake eggs in oven 

fold eggs over half cooked eggs 

slip cooked omelet onto plate 

(voila ready to eat) 

Omelets cooked in this way will get airy and puffy after 2-3 minutes in the oven; if it is not, leave it a bit longer until the surface appears a little uncooked and moist, At this point, flip half of the egg over the other half and transfer into the oven for 2-3 minutes longer until the top has browned. Unless you want to make master the French omelet technique the contemporary version will satisfy a 100%. And for some more excitement add one or more of the following before folding the egg over the other half: sprinkling grated cheese, chopped herbs, cut tomatoes and/or cubed avocado.

Chef’s note: We use three large cracked eggs per omelet per person which we cook in a 6-inch non-stick skillet. 

 

ECONOMICS OF COOKBOOKS

We’re in the progress of writing a cookbook and our schedules are filled with recipe testing, photography, and meetings with co-writers, agents, and publishing possibilities, just to start. Writing a book and actually get it onto the store shelves certainly takes a good amount of time and work. 
I have been paying close attention to cook book economics in the last two years. It seems last year the most anticipated book in the chef world was perhaps “Noma,” Rene Redzepi, which is about his cooking in new territories in his homeland Denmark (Copenhagen). This cookbook came to me three different times: first, I had it pre-ordered on Amazon and it arrived in late November, then I was received it for Christmas, and the third copy I received last week by mail – sender unknown? Lucky me pretty soon I can wallpaper my office with the picturesque food photos. Overall the book is beautiful but laid out a bit difficult since recipes and pictures are in different chapters. 

News Release
This year’s chef book – almost without a doubt -- is entitled “Modernist Cuisine”. It comes in six volumes and weighs around 40 pounds. It caught my attention last year (that is when I ordered it to receive it in early April of this year) in a story about the making of this book. A team of chefs wrote this massive volume in a 18,000 square foot laboratory style-warehouse with an in-house kitchen and photo studio! A large amount of cutting edge machinery was on hand to prepare and create food. It seems to  be an all around book meaning it explains science and technology in the kitchen in an engaging way. Needless to say we’re excited in our kitchen to receive this encyclopedia of a cookbook so it looks like it’s worth the heavy price tag of about $500.

Note: The mastermind behind this book is Nathan Myhrvold who held the position of chief technology officer at Microsoft in the past. It seems he is savvy enough to self-publish a book of this caliber and his team is certainly making headlines already.

What’s to come…
Currently we’re testing recipes and snapping pictures for our cookbook project; here is a taste from one of the chapters.

(Spätzle Mac)

Peas and Spätzle “Mac” and Cheese
Serves 4, or 2 as a main course

This is my version of Mac and cheese, combining my Austrian heritage with my American life. Its inspiration was both the classic American dish and the hearty dish of spatula and cheese, loaded with speck or prosciutto that I often ate at the top of a mountain in the middle of a long day of skiing. This is a spring version, to be served with goulash, a stew, or sea scallops. It needs a sauce, which it will soak up happily. It also makes a great entrée, which you can serve with a simple green salad.

Peas
2 cups shelled peas
Kosher salt to taste

1. Fill a bowl with cold water and ice.
2. In a 2-quart pot over high heat, bring water to a boil. Salt it to taste. Plunge the peas in the boiling water for 20 seconds, then use a slotted spoon to transfer them to the ice bath. This will stop the cooking process and retain their bright green color and crunchy texture. Strain them and pat them dry with paper towel.

(...making spätzle with a spezialized sieve) 

Spätzle 
1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 pinches cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
3 large eggs
2 egg yolks
1 to 2 cups lukewarm water
1-cup heavy cream
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Sea salt to taste
1 cup mixed grated cheeses, such as Cheddar, Swiss, Parmesan, and Gruyere

1. Fill a bowl with cold water and ice.
2. In a 4-quart pot over high heat, bring water and 1 tablespoon kosher salt to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and keep the water at a simmer.
3. Combine the flour, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, cayenne pepper, and nutmeg in a large bowl.  Make a well in the middle of the flour.
4. In another bowl, whisk together the eggs and egg yolks. Pour them in the middle of the flour well. Using a silicone spatula, stir all the ingredients until they are well combined. Pour 1½ cup lukewarm water into the flour and egg mixture and stir to combine. The batter should have the consistency of a thick pancake batter. If it is too thick, add a bit more water. A thin batter will make shorter spatula than a thick one.
5. Place a colander with ¼-inch holes over the simmering water. Use a large spoon or spatula to spoon half of the batter into the colander, then use a silicone spatula to push it through the holes. Little pieces of batter will fall into the simmering water, becoming spatula. Stir the water occasionally with a slotted spoon so that the spatula don’t stick together. When al dente, transfer the spätzle to the ice bath, then strain. Repeat with the remaining batter.
6. Heat the cream in a 2-quart pan over medium heat. Add the drained, cooked spätzle and the peas and cook until the cream has reduced and the sauce thickens. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat, sprinkle the cheese over the spätzle, and stir to combine. Serve immediately.

Recipe edited by Ann McBride

 
(baked Spätzle)

 

 

 

COOL UNDERGROUND SALAD

(radicchio, blue cheese salad with toasted pecans) 

This time of the year salads are scarce. It’s  too cold for tender lettuces such as Bibb, arugula or oak-leaf which I love and my experience is that they arrive at the restaurant wilted from frostbite because of the cold temperature. Hearts of Romaine – a staple in our kitchen -- is super expensive throughout the year  and especially right now, so it plays a limited roll on my current menu. The way to go is to seek out more sturdy salad greens which don’t mind these weather conditions. I call them the underground salad plants since they grow in a dark place.  As a result  they have low levels of chlorophyll production which causes these plants to lose their green pigmentation.
It is rather astonishing to grow salad plants completely without sunlight –and it is perfect for winter as it keeps the bitterness to an enjoyably mild level. Radicchio and endive are the most popular and you can get them consistently at your local supermarket. They are shipped tightly packed in dark paper so the color won’t change and are also protected from harsh temperatures this way. 

(endive wrapped in dark paper to keep the sunlight out) 

Belgian Endive
Pretty cone shaped and white with yellow leafy edges. I found it unusual, and worth to mention they are grown not directly from seeds meaning first they grow green leafs which are harvested and then on the second, forced growth there grows what we know as Belgium endive. When buying Belgium endive look for white as possible, tightly- leaf-packed pieces since they are the least bitter.

(intensely colored radicchio)
 
Radicchio
I love its jazzy crimson colored leaves with white veins. I seek out the tennis ball sized radicchio heads with vibrant, fresh looking leaves. Because radicchio can be overwhelmingly bitter I suggest you quarter the radicchio heads and soak in luke-warm water with a bit of powdered sugar (2 quarts water : 2 tablespoons sugar) for about twenty minutes. This makes it more palatable. Ever noticed a cone-shaped radicchio with similar looks to a Belgian endive? That is called Treviso, an Italian specialty. It is too bitter for raw consumption but perfect for grilling, seasoned with a touch of olive oil, salt and fresh pepper, absolutely delicious this way.

(tossed endive, Brussels sprout and red cabbage salad with spiced ricotta)
 

Making Bitter Salads a Success
 Discard core of salad plant– this is the most bitter part  
 Cut salad pieces in 1-inch long pieces – this will control the mouth-intake per leaf
 Match bitter flavor with a strong blue cheese such as Roquefort, Gorgonzola or  Stilton
 Toast nuts such as pine nuts for that special textural contrast
 Experiment with adding a zing with fruits such as halved-seedless grapes, grapefruit segments or the classic Bartlett pear addition

Chef’s Tip: The idea for a salad of this flavor caliber is to have little pieces of cheese, nuts and salad with a little dressing mixed together. I refer to it as “gently-kneading the salad” when I train new cooks.

Chef’s Note: I prefer to keep the salad dressing simple with salt, pepper, olive oil, and rice vinegar and perhaps a touch of maple syrup or honey will balance the natural bitterness.

 

HMM...LUNCH SANDWICHES

(turkey sandwich with Provolone cheese) 

Don’t you love sandwiches? I’m sure you have had a good deal of sandwiches in your life, especially for lunch and if some of the usuals get ho-hum the sandwich ideal is never stale.I want to make our restaurant lunch menu accessible to the local Chelsea neighborhood which is saturated with about 400 art businesses and the recent opening of the close by park – the Highline, which bring tons of hungry New York visitors and locals alike to the neighborhood. Sandwiches are perfect before, after or even during a stroll on a soon-to-be warm spring day in and out of galleries, on the Highline or along the Hudson River Park.

(fried chicken parmigiano with mozzarella and melted plum tomatoes)

A Long Sandwich History
The Sub
It all started out in Boston, Massachusetts at the beginning of World War 1. Most likely the name “sub” originated because sandwiches were commonly eaten by workers in the naval yard and the bread had a similar shape to the submarines these serviceman were working on.  

(layer after layer just good ingredients - my turkey sub)

The Hero
Heroes are associated with Italians and are the most prevailing New York City term for sandwiches with an oblong shape. As opposed to sliced bread, heroes have a v-cut meaning the bread is still attached on one long-side so it can be opened up in a book fashion which helps to keep the ingredients inside. And provolone cheese layered around the meat or chicken helps to prevent the bun from getting soggy.  New York pizzerias often offer chicken or eggplant Parmesan and meatball heroes with tomato sauce -- cold or hot -- on their menus.

The Perfect Sandwich is …
With my new menu, which is a work in progress, I have been immersed in the sandwich world. I want to see what other places do in terms of heroes, subs or melts.
What I have noticed is that only a small number of heroes are actually worth eating since the majority of sliced turkey or ham lacks quality. In fact what  I have learned is nothing new – there is no real secret to a good sandwich beyond good ingredients. To prepare a good sandwich you need fresh bread from the local bakery and pack it tightly with many layers of sliced cheese, meat and sometimes shredded lettuce simply seasoned with a touch of oil and vinegar, salt and pepper. Having a sandwich either cold or hot depends perhaps on your mood. If all the ingredients are fresh including the turkey it must be a winner so let your teeth sink into a sandwich like this and eat this portable delight wherever  your heart is content.

(house-made turkey ham) 

A Sandwich From Scratch
Because I was not able to find a delicious ham that fits the bill I decided to prepare my own which I brine, slowly cook and roast to a tasty, moist perfection and from that build a perfect sandwich.

Tips to homemade ham success (or turkey):

1. Prepare a brine with Kosher-style salt (1 cup salt:1 gallon water)
2. Place pork butt (I use Berkshire pork shoulder) or turkey (I use free-range Pennsylvania turkey breast) into brine and put into refrigerator. Brining time depends on the thickness of meat or poultry, brine for each inch - 2½ hours
3. Place a pot of water filled with hot water into a 170 degree Fahrenheit oven (this is the lowest temperature I can set my home oven to)
4. Rinse brined meat or poultry with water then season generously with salt and pepper then roll tightly in several layers of plastic saran wrap. Put meat or poultry roll into a zip-loc style bag then press air out and close top zipper
5. Place bagged meat or poultry into pot in oven then cook to an internal temperature of 165 degree Fahrenheit (measure temperature with kitchen thermometer). Cooking time depends on thickness of meat or poultry
6. Set oven temperature to 450 degree Fahrenheit
7. Unwrap meat tor poultry from plastic wrap then sprinkle with vegetable oil such as canola, finely chopped garlic and thyme leaves
8. Roast in oven for 15 – 25 minutes or until browned

Chef’s Note: I promise you this will be one of the best hams or turkeys you have eaten. The meat or poultry can be eaten hot or cold the next day.

(very moist and tender- succulent on a sandwich) 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OYSTERS & STAMINA

Famously, they are said to be an aphrodisiac. It might not have made you fall in love with your dining partner this past Valentine’s day but shucking endless oysters that day made me want to explore oyster cooking. In conversations with guests I learned that many people enjoy the flavor of oysters but they don’t seem to care much for the slippery texture of these little mollusks in their raw state. With that in mind a recent abundance of beautiful fleshy oysters made us explore oyster cooking in various ways including frying, stewing, and one stood out most - pickling oysters!  Pickling seems to be the right match resulting in a great firm and fleshy texture, resistant with a mild bite then finally dissolving into a briny, refreshing ocean pool in my mouth.  I loved it. 

(three pickled oysters and vegetable variation: with carrots, purple Japanese radish, golden beets)

Pickled Oysters
(recipe yields 1 dz. oysters)

1 cup water
1 cup rice vinegar
1 lemon, juiced
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 bay leaf
1 pinch pepper flakes
5 coriander seeds
12 large oysters such as Belon or any other large sized, briny oyster

1. In a pot combine water, vinegar, lemon, honey, sea salt bay leaf, peppercorns and coriander seeds then bring to boil and steep for 30 minutes.
2. Shuck oysters then rinse with water and place in a shallow container next to each other. Reserve deep oyster shells 
3. Bring spice mixture to boil again then pour through a fine mesh sieve over shucked oysters. Steep oysters for two hours before serving

Chef’s Note: Serve pickled oysters individually in deep oyster shells with some of their pickling liquid.

Casanova knew it
Oysters are nutritionally sound containing a high amount of protein, carbohydrates and are an excellent source of vitamins A, B1, B2, B3 C and D.  All of these vitamins are said to help one’s stamina.  That plus the suggestive texture and taste of oysters .. well need I say more.

(keep oysters on indirect ice at all times) 

A season for oysters?
There is a little bit of a myth out there that oysters should be eaten only in months with “r-s” in them (September – April). In reality oysters have to be continuously refrigerated so when the thermometer climbs too high keeping oysters chilled well is of utmost importance – if they are stored properly they are perfectly fine to be consumed all year around.

 

GLOBAL APPEAL

One of the fresh vegetables that stands out this time of the year is cauliflower. It’s a versatile vegetable and used in many cuisines around the world.  One of my Italian chef friends calls it “cauli-fiori” and I still hear the nasal-French pronunciation when I did cooking stints in France “chouxfleur”. Cauliflower is certainly bedecked with spices in Gobi an important preparation in Indian cuisine. Germany has endless preparations of “Blumenkohl” – since cauliflower is grown there abundantly.

(cauliflower)

A good-looking cabbage
Cauliflower is among a family of food plants known as crucifers which includes Brussels sprouts, kale, broccoli and collard greens. Growing cauliflower in fall or spring brings the best results as it does well in cooler, moist weather conditions.  Common cauliflower resembles a huge, white snowball surrounded by a few green leaves,  and cousins of white cauliflower can have an orange, green or  purple colored appearance which look fake to me as though they  have been painted or dyed like those ultra-blue flowers you can buy in delis.

But not just pretty
Among its other nutritional highlights 9vitamin K, C, B, potassium, fiber, etc.), cauliflower contains a chemical (indole-3-carbinol) which boosts DNA helping to repair cells and appears to block the growth of certain cancer cells. An intake of cauliflower has been found to reduce the risk of aggressive breast and prostate cancer.

 (cauliflower and Brussels sprouts baked with cheese fondue)
 
Preparing cauliflower 
Raw cauliflower has a strong cabbage-y taste thus I prefer to cook it to mellow its strong flavor. I have a few favorite preparations: 

- raw sliced and skillet roasted with some caper berries thrown into the mix
- cauliflower cut into little florets then steamed in a curry spice broth and baked with cheese fondue
- slowly roasted then pureed with a touch of cream and seasoned with nutmeg

My mom cooked cauliflower the first way  - steamed - then she breaded and fried and served with a vinegary tartar sauce … mouthwatering when I think about it.

(fried cauliflower with endive and smoked popcorn)

Caramelized Cauliflower 
(recipe yields four appetizer portions)

1 head cauliflower
2 tablespoons vegetable oil such as canola
salt, to taste
grindings of fresh black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons capers
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 tablespoon parsley leaves

1. Remove green leaves from cauliflower then cut into 3-inch florets (flower shaped pieces). Cut florets into ½-thick slices
2. Heat oil in a skillet on medium heat setting then add cauliflower slices. Working in batches, brown cauliflower slices on both sides
3. Put capers into a sieve then rinse with warm water (this will rinse off the excessive salt)
4. In a bowl, toss browned cauliflower slices with capers, salt, pepper, nutmeg and parsley leaves

Chef’s tip: Add two tablespoons of raisins soaked in warm water for ten minutes as a lovely addition to this recipe.

 

VALENTINE'S DAY

Creating a festive specialty menu is always fun for us and at the same time a challenge for a professional kitchen. Most likely we’ll come about new ingredients and cooking techniques just for the excitement and we push ourselves to a creative edge. With new dishes there is a lot of rehearsing going on with trial and error and test cooking in the kitchen before the actual menu items are put in front of a guest.

(halibut "flower" with baby spinach and braised red cabbage puree) 

Past and present V-days
I remember past Valentine’s day menus where we incorporated edible flowers of all sorts into our dishes – a lovely addition in particular since flowers play such an important roll for V-day. The scent of mesmerizing rose petals steeped in an herb broth served with a shellfish dish, the fragrant flavor of orange blossoms combined with a dessert course and the visual appeal of colorful edible flowers on food should be not underestimated. Another year the theme was inspired by flower arrangements, for example greens were served bundled like a bouquet and looked just like a flower arrangement, a halibut which was thinly sliced and arranged in a flower petal fashion and then gently cooked.
This year we decided for a rhythmic musical theme – the taste of music.  Every course of our Valentine’s menu will be served with a dance style theme. Let’s see how we let food dance…

A waltz of small appetizers…
Like a waltz assorted appetizers are fun, fanciful and go in a crowd

Lobster Roll Taste Duet
two little bites, tailored for couples

(lobster rolls like hugging) 

Belon Oyster Jazz
with Champagne ice shaving
silvery, fleshy and beautiful oysters with frozen champagne flakes - every flavor has a solo similar to Jazz

Smoked Salmon & Caviar Tango
The dance of love … smoked salmon is tightly trapped around its partner -- kernels of caviar

1ST COURSE
Thin Crust Pizza (for 2 ) Tarantella
prosciutto, parmesan, Greenmarket onions
prosciutto tries to be the star but can’t do it without parmesan – similar in the Italian Tarantella dance where the drum and dancer try to upstage each other
or

(lobster bisque with tarragon swirl and a touch of tequila) 

Lobster Bisque Flamenco
smoked popcorn, tequila-tarragon swirl
a velvety textured lobster bisque with a fiery-spicy tequila-caramel reduction and smoky popcorn flavor reflecting the speed of the dance making the room and your feet smoke
or
Three Color Winter Salad Twist
ricotta salata cheese, vegetable curls
arugula, endive, radicchio, candied walnuts
greens are intertwined with a network of parsnip, carrot and beet curls

ENTRÉE
Muscovy Duck Rumba
duck meat ball, duck leg confit
shaved red cabbage cooked with Rum
coriander crisps
the softness of rumba dance reflected in duck meat balls balanced with a touch of rum to round things out
or
Beef Steak Salsa
Brandt farm beef shoulder steak, potato cannelloni
grilled hearts of romaine, spicy pepper sauce
an excellent steak served with a spicy peppercorn and jalapeño sauce and a touch of tomato salsa
or
Truffle Mac & Cheese Polka
spätzel pasta with four cheeses
pumpernickel & truffle crust
a Middle European polka pairs well with this peasant Germanic spätzel pasta with the fragrance of black truffle
or
King Salmon & Shrimp Swing
steamed spinach, Meyer lemon preserve
these seafoods intertwine in a roulad-style whimsical dish

DESSERT
Sweet Samplings (for 2) Cha-Cha-Cha
peanut butter banana bar
red velvet cupcake with raspberry frosting
chocolate-apricot cake
this three-in-one puts a swing in the hips like a cha-cha-cha

bon appetite!

(citrus tart with candied Cara Cara orange and whipped vanilla cream, sprinkled with dried rose pedals) 

 

FONDUE IS HOT AGAIN

It has been snowing a lot in NYC this winter. Fondue seems a perfect fit for these freezing temperatures. In one way or another my guests expect a renaissance every year of this cheesy hominess in our restaurant. It might have something to do with the fact that I grew up in the Alps.

There are four kinds fondue I’m familiar with:
- various food bites boiled in an aromatic broth 
- meat, fish or vegetables cut into mouth-sized pieces fried in hot oil
- cheese - the most classic version served with pickled vegetables and bread cubes
- sweet fondue such as chocolate accompanied by chunks of strawberries, apples, pineapple and such for dipping

(cheese fondue condiments: gherkins, pickled onions, sausage, bread chunks)

Cheese Fondue
The traditional version originally created in the Swiss Alps consists of good Alpine cheese meted into local dry wine with a touch of brandy. The cheese mixture is kept warm over a low flame on the dining room table in a fondue pot.

I think of fondue as mac & cheese without the macaroni pasta. The taste of several delicious tasting cheeses melted together make a huge flavor impact. So little needs to be added but I like to add some roasted garlic and a touch of freshly grated nutmeg to round the flavor out. Following is a basic recipe that my guests love:

(cheese fondue) 

Alpine Cheese Fondue
(yields enough for two)
1 ½ cups Emmenthaler cheese, grated
1 ½ cups Gruyere cheese, grated
1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
2 tablespoons flour 
1-2 cups white wine such as Pinot Grigio
2 tablespoons brandy such as Kirsch (optional)
¼ teaspoon nutmeg, grated (optional)
1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced then roasted to a golden brown color in a little vegetable oil (optional)

1. Grate cheese then toss with flour
2. On medium heat setting heat 1 cup of wine but do not boil then add cheese one at the time, stir with a wooden spoon (melt cheese into the wine mixture until a smooth consistency is achieved – this step takes patience, keep mixture below boiling point so that it doesn’t become stringy).
3. Season to taste. Thin mixture with rest of white wine out if necerssary.
 
Since the recipe is so simple it’s fun to perk it up with some condiments.  Here are some
Condiment ideas:
- Many pickled vegetable such as pearl onions, gherkins, mushrooms will work perfectly fine as long as they are bite-sized and don’t bleed out like pickled red beets
- bread cut into 1-inch sized cubes; one person can eat about 20 of these - it equals about 1-third of a French baguette
- large pretzel sliced into mouth sized pieces
- for a substantial fondue meal serve boiled or grilled sausage slices such as Kielbasa

Beyond the Basic Recipe:
Once you have prepared the basic fondue recipe I recommend matching different flavors of alcoholic liquid and cheeses such as lager beer with cheddar and gouda or blue cheese with cheddar with port wine, which is quite a powerful flavor combination.

Cheese fondue recommendations:
- use dry or semi-dry wine in the melting process because the acid of the wine helps to make a smooth cheese fondue consistency
- cook/melt cheese mixture on a stove then transfer into a fondue pot 
- Keep fondue temperature about 120 degrees Fahrenheit so that the cheese mixture stays smooth and homogenized. Adding more wine (never use water) to a stringy or to thick fondue mixture should do the trick to have the honey-like saucy fondue consistency

Chef’s Note:  if you have more people than your partner sitting with you at the fondue table – no double dipping please!