I remember eating a soft-shell crab the first time in Europe 20 years ago in a three Michelin star restaurant and for me as a young cook it was defenitly the best food “thing.” I never had seen something like it before - it was my first time.
The one the chef served was lightly pan fried and kind of small. It was draped over a tropical fruit and herb salad I still can remember it was simple and really delicous with a seductive crunch. I found out that night that these kinds of crabs shed their hard shell every so often allowing you to eat it for a short period of time until the shell hardens again.
Dejavu
Many years later now a chef in the States I came across these little eight legged beach runners again. At the beginning of the season every year I have my dejavu and it puts a smile on my face still remembering my first time.
Lunch
I enjoy them often in a BLT version. It reminds me of the American way of a casual lunch. It makes an ideal spring/summer lunch. Usually it consists of thinly sliced ripe avocado, vine ripened fat tomatoes and a good bacon, like the one from www.flyingpigfarm.com. Everything is packed between two delicous layeres of grilled sourdough baguette.
Full moon in spring
The season is traditionally marked with the first full moon in May to early September when they are available at the fish market. I make sure that they are packed between hay which keeps them moist so they will survive at least a day or two in the refrigerator until consumed.
I love females
I try to get the ones from the Cheseapeak Bay - they are gorgeous. I ask to pick female crabs because they tend to be fattier and jucier and they have the tomalley inside which we also call mustard. This tends to ooze out when you press your sandwich together, its delicious.
Belly up
Turn your soft-shell crab belly up and flip the tail or apron back and cut it off with a scissor. Flip the bugger over so the top is facing you and bend the two wings (pointy side flaps to the left and right of the crab) towards the middle so the lungs are exposed - it looks like fish gills, and remove it with a scissor. Then here comes the hard part cut across the front of the crab removing the little antennas and eyes.
Sizzle me
I prefer the jumbo sized crabs (around 5 ½ “) or even larger whales (over 5 ½ “). I sprinkle them with Durum flour which is finely ground fancy hard wheat which makes a nice coating whithout beeing sticky. I tried several different coatings like tempura, beer batters or different crustings and various nuts and seeds but nothing really made them deliciously natural like the Durum dusting. For seasoning if you prefer them spicy, add a touch of cayenne which with their natural brineness is perfect, meaning they don’t need any additional salt. I usually sear them in a saute pan on each side in 1/8 of an inch deep vegetable oil on medium heat setting for four minutes or until golden in color. Once cooked place on a paper towel lined plate to absorb the extra oil. The making of the sandwich is self explanatory -- seared soft-shell, tomato, avocado and crispy bacon between sourdough bread.
Soft-shell crab with organic Maine salmon and fiddlehead ferns and lemon peel puree
