An excerpt from a service staff meeting in my restaurant.
“What do you know about sweetbreads“
Some said it is cow’s brain others assumed it is the reproductive organ of a lamb …
Not that it sounds all that good but here is what sweetbreads are:
Either stomach sweetbreads which are an animal’s pancreas, and the other an animal’s thymus gland (it is located at the throat of the animal) which is responsible for the growth of young pigs & lamb but more commonly cattle (beef, cow). After the age of one to one and a half years the young cattles thymus gland shrinks and later after the age of two, it is gone completely.
Sweetbreads are part of the family called variety meats (innards) similar to liver, stomach, intestines, heart etc. also sometimes refered to as offal.
(Charred sweetbreads with preserved truffles, radish and rhubarb salad)
My recipe for sweetbreads
I grew up in a household were the food budget was somewhat limited. My mother bought all kinds of variety meats at the local butcher store – nothing was wasted everything was cooked in some way and eaten.
1. Place sweetbread in water for at least 24 hours (refrigerated) and change the water twice in that time, this will take the blood out of it.
2. Poach sweetbreads for 10 minutes in plain water then transfer to an ice bath.
3. With your fingers pull the sweetbreads outer skin carefully off.
4. Line kitchen counter with plastic wrap (9x9-inch)
5. Season sweetbread with salt, fresh black pepper, thyme leaves and bay leaf
6. Roll sweetbread into plastic wrap tightly. Twist both sides like candy wraping paper to tighten rolls. To prevent plastic from loosening up secure with another layer of plastic wrap.
7. Put rolled sweetbread into a cooking pouch such as a Zip-loc bag. Press air out of bag and zip close.
8. Cook in preheated water bath for two hours at 180 degrees Fahrenheit.
9. Cool in ice bath then cut slices (1-inch thick) of sweetbread.
10. Sear sweetbread in vegetable oil such as canola oil for three minutes or until golden-brown in color on both sides.
(Veal cheeks layered & sweetbreads with broccoli rab, toasted hemp broth and cilantro delfino)
Sweetbreads have a delicious mild flavor with a creamy, velvety texture that pairs well with soft lettuce or fragrant mushrooms. I still remember when I worked in a haut cuisine temple in Europe I larded sweetbreads with match-stick sized black truffle pieces. It was served with a tiny amount steamed white cabbage leaves, truly an exceptional dish.
Now-a-days these offal foods are considered a delicacy by many. More recipes to come…
