Kraut Doesn't Always Have to be "Sauer"

At this time of year one of the few vegetables that’s available at the Farmer’s Market is cabbage (besides winter squash and mustard greens).
 
(Wintery vegetable - spiced with juniper, coriander and bay leaf) 

I grew up with numerous cabbage dishes which were prepared with lots of different spices and a long list of ingredients but it was well worth it. The most popular of course is sauerkraut, which we made from scratch – it’s not difficult but it requires patience the recipe takes you over a week or several days. You should not mind the smell in the making of it though…  
 
(red wine braised cabbage, Wagyu beef brisket, cauliflower) 

My grandmother’s red cabbage
When it comes to red cabbage, braising is key.  In my recipe I use liquids such as orange juice and red wine.
The recipe is in two parts:  (1) marinating shredded red cabbage to soften and impregnate the cabbage with flavor, and (2) sauté onions in duck fat then add the marinated cabbage and cook slowly with a tight fitting lid to a stage where it becomes meltingly soft, for 2 hours at least. The braised cabbage will have a beautiful scent and fill your house with notes of cinnamon and cloves.  This is perfect for the holiday season and takes me right back to the memories growing up in snowy Austria. 
 

 Red Cabbage Cooked With Red Wine
(recipe yields 8 portions)

1 head red cabbage (5-inch diameter)
1 cup orange juice
1 cup Merlot-style red wine
1 cup balsamic vinegar
1 cup cranberries (cranberry jelly may be substituted)
1 bay leaf
½-teaspoon ground cinnamon
½-teaspoon ground cloves
½-teaspoon ground nutmeg
½-teaspoon cayenne
½-teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
2 tablespoons Kosher-style salt
2 tablespoons honey such as clover honey
½-cup duck fat
2 tablespoons rice
1 onion (3-inch diameter)
4 cloves garlic or 2 tablespoons roasted garlic puree may be substituted

1. Core cabbage then slice with a knife thinly (1/8-inch thick strips) or with a vegetable slicer such as a Mandolin and transfer into a large bowl
2. Combine all other ingredients (except onion and garlic) with sliced cabbage then toss to combine and let sit for one hour or so (this way cabbage will turn bright red in color and wilt a bit)
3. Peel onions and garlic then cut (1/8-inch thick strips)
   Heat duck fat in a pot (1-gallon sized) on medium heat setting and cook cut onion and garlic (3-5 minutes) then add cabbage/spice mixture. Cook cabbage mixture on low heat setting (cook cabbage for 2 hours or until tender, stirring every 30 minutes or so, covered with a tight fitting lid)
4. Adjust seasoning with salt and fresh pepper as necessary 

Chef's Tip: If you can get your hands on lovage put some into your braised red cabbage it will noticeable improve your dish) 

Pairings
If you like wintery well marbled, rich beef dishes such as brisket or spiced foods such as sausages, braised cabbage and sauerkraut are their best friends. The richness of these meats is balanced with the rustic flavor of cabbage. For a wine pairing serve a dry crisp white wine such as Grüner Veltliner and Austrian Riesling which is dry and fruit forward -- its aroma stands up to the strong cabbage taste.  If you are out on a splurge give an Italian Barolo a try and you’ll like how this red wine will go hand in hand with the taste nuances of braised red cabbage.

Peasant food –  good eating on a budget
Let’s face it red cabbage is peasant cooking and inexpensive – it brings out the essence of every day food items. A few days ago one of my beloved regular guests at the restaurant brought along a Tupperware container of cooked red cabbage which he mastered after his grandmother’s  red cabbage recipe. The irony is that in the past years he asked me to shave high priced truffles over his dishes and now we exchange recipes of our grandmothers’ red cabbage recipes.  I guess when the economy goes south we go back to our roots, or our cabbages!