(radicchio, blue cheese salad with toasted pecans)
This time of the year salads are scarce. It’s too cold for tender lettuces such as Bibb, arugula or oak-leaf which I love and my experience is that they arrive at the restaurant wilted from frostbite because of the cold temperature. Hearts of Romaine – a staple in our kitchen -- is super expensive throughout the year and especially right now, so it plays a limited roll on my current menu. The way to go is to seek out more sturdy salad greens which don’t mind these weather conditions. I call them the underground salad plants since they grow in a dark place. As a result they have low levels of chlorophyll production which causes these plants to lose their green pigmentation.
It is rather astonishing to grow salad plants completely without sunlight –and it is perfect for winter as it keeps the bitterness to an enjoyably mild level. Radicchio and endive are the most popular and you can get them consistently at your local supermarket. They are shipped tightly packed in dark paper so the color won’t change and are also protected from harsh temperatures this way.
(endive wrapped in dark paper to keep the sunlight out)
Belgian Endive
Pretty cone shaped and white with yellow leafy edges. I found it unusual, and worth to mention they are grown not directly from seeds meaning first they grow green leafs which are harvested and then on the second, forced growth there grows what we know as Belgium endive. When buying Belgium endive look for white as possible, tightly- leaf-packed pieces since they are the least bitter.
(intensely colored radicchio)
Radicchio
I love its jazzy crimson colored leaves with white veins. I seek out the tennis ball sized radicchio heads with vibrant, fresh looking leaves. Because radicchio can be overwhelmingly bitter I suggest you quarter the radicchio heads and soak in luke-warm water with a bit of powdered sugar (2 quarts water : 2 tablespoons sugar) for about twenty minutes. This makes it more palatable. Ever noticed a cone-shaped radicchio with similar looks to a Belgian endive? That is called Treviso, an Italian specialty. It is too bitter for raw consumption but perfect for grilling, seasoned with a touch of olive oil, salt and fresh pepper, absolutely delicious this way.
(tossed endive, Brussels sprout and red cabbage salad with spiced ricotta)
Making Bitter Salads a Success
Discard core of salad plant– this is the most bitter part
Cut salad pieces in 1-inch long pieces – this will control the mouth-intake per leaf
Match bitter flavor with a strong blue cheese such as Roquefort, Gorgonzola or Stilton
Toast nuts such as pine nuts for that special textural contrast
Experiment with adding a zing with fruits such as halved-seedless grapes, grapefruit segments or the classic Bartlett pear addition
Chef’s Tip: The idea for a salad of this flavor caliber is to have little pieces of cheese, nuts and salad with a little dressing mixed together. I refer to it as “gently-kneading the salad” when I train new cooks.
Chef’s Note: I prefer to keep the salad dressing simple with salt, pepper, olive oil, and rice vinegar and perhaps a touch of maple syrup or honey will balance the natural bitterness.
