(golden pan-fried schnitzel)
In Austria where I grew up schnitzel is called “Wiener schnitzel” (meaning Viennese schnitzel) and it has to be made from veal by law. Schnitzel meat is sliced from the leg which is called Fricandeau. It is sliced thinly then flattened gently with a mallet and then it gets dipped in flour, mixed egg and finely ground bread crumbs. Then it is cooked in a skillet filed with oil - only a finger deep –and pan-fried. There is a significant difference between deep frying and fan frying – when properly pan fried, the schnitzel will cook to a golden, air puffed perfection. By carefully and continuously shaking the oil-swimming schnitzel in the skillet over heat the actual veal meat develops steam and puffs-up the bread crust creating a type of souffleing-effect.
(cucumber salad)
Schnitzel Things
Traditionally, the Austrian schnitzel gets garnished with a wedge of lemon and some curly parsley. Each country seems to have their own specialized way of doing schnitzel things (accessories, accompaniments, accoutrements) with different garnishes such as tomato sauce, gravy, melting cheese (chicken parmigano anybody?), anchovy fillets, sunny-side eggs atop and on and on. My Japanese friend eats his tonkatsu (thick pork cutlet, bread crumbed) with lot of soy sauce. I’m amazed and amused by guests’ insistence “this is how schnitzel must be served” if he or she had it in one region of Austria or another, or Bavaria or Switzerland or in Upstate NY. If he had it with cucumber salad then memory demands that same garnish to call it “authentic.” My staff always says “it’s called Wiener schnitzel, it’s from Vienna” with a smile (I hope)!
(red cabbage salad)
Childhood Proportions
When I was little my mother mastered pork schnitzel for us kids. I remember it covered the whole plate and it seemed gigantic. I’m sure you can relate to some degree -- normal things like a stair case, an adult dinner fork are totally gigantic to kids. And the giant schnitzel is even giant to an adult so you can imagine my child eyes staring at this oversized delicious thing on my plate. I want to capture these impressions so we put a JUMBO schnitzel on our current Spring menu at Klee.
(carrot salad)
Jumbo Schnitzel
(recipe for two extra large schnitzel)
2 slices pork loin (each 7-ounces)
3 large eggs
salt
fresh black pepper
2 cups flour
2 cups bread crumbs (ground finely)
2 cups vegetable oil such as canola or grape seed oil
2 tablespoons butter
3 wedges lemon
1. Butterfly-cut pork loin slices.
2. Line a flat surface such as a kitchen counter with plastic seran wrap (12x12-inch square) then put butterflyed pork on it and cover with a second layer of plastic wrap. Gently flatten pork with a mallet (thickness of meat is ideal at maximum 1/8-inch thick after flattening and in 10-inch diameter). Flatten second pork slice.
3. Line three shallow plates next to each other one with flour, second with mixed eggs and third with bread crumbs.
4. Season pork with salt and pepper. Tip seasoned pork into flour then egg and bread crumbs (shake off flour then dip into egg and lastly tip into bread crumbs). Do not press coating onto schnitzel.
5. In a shallow skillet (12-inch or so in diameter) heat half of vegetable oil on medium heat setting then add breaded pork slice (oil should be sizzling at this point).
6. Cook pork on one side then add half of the butter and turn with kitchen tongues to cook other side (cook schnitzel 3 minutes or so until crust has a golden color – move skillet carefully back and forth – in this way the hot oil swaps over schnitzel surface then turn and cook for 2 minutes more).
7. Squeeze some of the lemon over schnitzel then transfer to paper lined plate to absorb excess fat. Pan-fry second piece of pork.
(schnitzel with three salads)
Chef’s plating suggestions: thinly sliced cucumber seasoned with salt and pepper marinated with vinegar and oil make a refreshing companion to schnitzel. Thinly sliced red cabbage tossed with mustard vinaigrette add terrific textural contrast and color.
